For over 1,000 years, civilizations have produced quality wine in the Tokaj region of modern-day Hungary. This area’s deep winemaking history and cultural significance in Central Europe have led it to be listed as one of the country’s eight UNESCO World Heritage Sites.
The most revered wine from this area is Tokaji wine, a sweet dessert wine that is even mentioned in the country’s national anthem.
The region is comprised of 5,500 hectares of vineyards stretching across 27 municipalities, with volcanic soil that provides the ideal conditions for grapes to develop noble rot, a fermentation process characteristic of Tokaji wine that contributes to its distinct taste.
Today, these vineyards allow visitors to taste their wine straight from the source while taking in the views of Hungary’s historic rolling hills.
Here are a few of the vineyards that make Hungary’s Tokaj Wine Region special:
Götz Winery: Looking straight out of a movie, this vineyard’s “hobbit-hole” cellars contributed to the area’s UNESCO World Heritage Site status. Like many in the region, the Götz Winery’s specialty is the area’s distinct Tokaji Aszú grapes, producing the iconic Tokaji wine. The winery is located in the 18th-century village of Hercegkút, providing amenities to tourists who visit the region. The deceivingly spacious cellar can seat up to 200 people, making this a fantastic space for large events.
Disznókő Winery: Originally founded in 1413, Disznókő Winery is one of the Tokaj Wine Region’s most distinguished vineyards. This esteemed winery has gained national and international attention, having been named “Hungarian Winery of the Year” in 2005, cementing its place as a must-visit for enotourists in the region. Disznókő Winery’s 150 hectares of land make for an incredible visitation experience and allow for a large variety of grapes planted, creating special blends that can’t be found in other Tokaj vineyards.
Barta Winery: Home to a stunning 17th-century aristocratic mansion, this historic vineyard continues its timeless organic cultivating methods. As stated, Barta’s philosophy is: “If we cultivate the vineyard in an environmentally friendly way, we should also make our wine the most natural, most traditional way possible.” The mansion has three recently renovated suites for guests to spend the night, a built-in cellar carved into the bedrock, and a rustic tasting room.
Gróf Degenfeld Wine Estate and Castle Hotel: This spectacular vineyard is home to a 19th-century chateau hotel, a luxury restaurant, and all the wine anyone could dream of consuming. The sprawling 35-hectare property produces different kinds of wine, from traditional Tokaji sweet wines to dry wines like Muscat Blanc, all made using the same unique processes for over 500 years.
Exploring Tokaj is not only a journey through one of the world’s most historic wine regions, but also an invitation to experience Hungary’s living cultural heritage firsthand. With its award-winning vineyards, historic estates, and unforgettable flavors, Tokaj offers travelers a truly timeless taste of Central Europe.
What captures your imagination? Medieval or modern, baroque or family fun? Southwest Germany’s Christmas markets cater to all. Find them on historic squares and in monasteries, in castles and nestled in the woods. Sip mulled wine, nibble tasty treats, buy one-of-a-kind crafts that are perfect for gifts. For many people, the Advent season is one of the most beautiful times of the year. No matter where you are in Southwest Germany, fresh air mixes with the aroma of mulled wine, roasted almonds and warm chestnuts. In addition to the large Christmas markets, there are also numerous smaller markets with a special atmosphere to discover. The Christmas markets around Lake Constance combine traditions and delicacies from Germany, Austria, Switzerland and the Principality of Liechtenstein.
The short distances between the different places make it possible to visit many different Christmas markets across national borders. The Black Forest has 150 Christmas markets alone and each town’s market has its own personality, events and handicrafts. Stuttgart, the state capital, has a beautiful and enormous Christmas market complete with choirs, Christmas fair for children, and beautifully decorated stalls.
Musical and Artistic Advent Delights in the Black Forest
Nicknamed the “Singing Christmas Tree,” the choir members will stand on several levels of an approximately 60 foot high “Christmas Tree” in front of the historic Abbey backdrop between the Elztal Museum and in the Organ City” of from December 8 to 17, 2023 www.singender-weihnachtsbaum.de.
In the town of Gengenbach, the town hall is transformed into the “world’s largest Advent calendar house.” This year, they will present from November 30 to December 23, the “paradisiacal” motifs of Olaf Hajek, one of the most renowned contemporary German illustrators at 6 pm every day. www.gengenbach.info
In Karlsruhe, an interplay of artistic light figures, fairytale-like light scenarios and dreamlike illuminations creates the “Christmas Garden.” This special creation is a just over one mile long circular route through the park landscape of the Zoologischer Stadtgarten from November 23, 2023 to January 7, 2024 from 5 to 10 pm.www.christmas-garden.de/karlsruhe
Gorges and Waterfalls of the Black Forest Highlands
Opening on November 24, the Christmas market in the Ravenna Gorge, at the foot of the Höllental Viaduct, is surrounded by mystical forests. Close by, the Triberg Waterfalls will also be transformed into a romantic winter setting from December 25 to 30, 2023 (2 p.m. to 9 p.m.): One million lights will shine on the “Triberg Christmas Magic.”
Five times each day, a spectacular fire show with music is put on show for visitors. The crowning glory is a breathtaking fireworks display, full of light and accompanied by music – from December 27 to 30, daily at 9 p.m. www.triberger-weihnachtszauber.de
Also, on December 10 and 17, 2023 (each at 2 p.m.), a guided tour starts at the Kurhaus Hinterzarten and leads over small root paths and wooden walkways into the deep gorge. www.original-landreisen.de
Lakeside Christmas Markets, Christmas Cruises and Botanical Garden Delight
Fairytale Christmas markets directly on the lakeshore or in historic old towns, Christmas experiences in festively decorated castles or on exclusive ships – all this and much more awaits visitors to the four-country region of Lake Constance (aka the Bodensee). White passenger ships sail back and forth connecting visitors to different Christmas markets around the Bodensee. “Cast off” is the motto for the numerous winter boat tours, which can be ideally combined with a visit to the Christmas market around Lake Constance. During the cruise passengers can enjoy the wintry landscape and enjoy a cup of coffee and a delicious cake.
From November 30 to December 23, the Lakeside Christmas Market Constance and the Christmas ship located in the harbour invite you to enjoy the shoreline scene and ambience from the water. The winterscape on the garden island of Mainau is unparalleled and supported by the local traditions and the
from Nov 21, 2023 to Jan 7, 2024. The New Castle in Tettnang offers traditional delicacies and live Christmas music in front of a historic castle. The Christmas market is open from 01 to 03 December and from 08 to 10 December. The Lindau Harbor Christmas market has a beautiful backdrop of the Alps shimmering in the distance. https://www.bodensee.eu/en/what-to-do/culture/christmas-markets
Southwest Germany’s Christmas Cookies to Make at Home
It is well-known that Baden-Württemberg is a great place for culinary delights. This is especially true during the Christmas season. In the winter months, the bakeries are very busy places: Kneading and shaping, rolling and cutting are the order of the day. And the sweet flavour of star anise and cinnamon wafts over everything.
The Spitzbuben, also known as Hildabrötchen, have a long tradition. They originally come from southern Germany and are named after the Grand Duchess Hilda von Nassau, the last Grand Duchess of Baden. Springerle are the hard aniseed-flavoured biscuits that can be eaten but are also used as decoration in cafés, restaurants and even on Christmas trees! The dough is made of eggs, flour and sugar; wooden moulds, carved in medieval patterns, scenes and figures. Moulds are sold in the Christmas markets and make a nice souvenir.
Hutzelbrot is a traditional Christmas pastry and used to be prepared especially in farmer families. Hutzeln are the halved, dried fruits of an old pear variety, also called Hutzel pear. The term “hutzelig” means something like “wrinkled” in Swabia and thus aptly describes the appearance of the dried pears. Dambedei: he is tan and has many names but he is made of yeast and every child recognizes it immediately by its characteristic appearance. With a pointed head, raisin eyes, almond mouth and the button placket made of nuts.
Last but Definitely not Least: Lebkuchen and Gluehwein/Mulled Wine
Lebkuchen has a nice story in SouthWest Germany. Of course, everyone eats Lebkuchen in Germany (recipes vary from region to region) especially at the holiday time. What is interesting however is that there is a Lebkuchen trail in the Black Forest and it is part of the culinary tradition of a little village called Todtmoos. In the past, in addition to the bakers, it was the local women who earned extra income with Lebkuchen. The Todtmoos women baked the delicious and durable gingerbread in their home ovens and sold it at the pilgrimage stands next to the steep climb to the church. The so-called gingerbread women then bought hundreds of gingerbreads from the local bakers and brought them to the poor areas of the Black Forest. They were welcome there, because they brought the Christmas scent as well as the popular Christmas biscuits into the house.
Mulled wine is very popular drink during the winter season in Southwest Germany. Try out our recipe to enjoy it yourself or with friends and family as it is a delicious holiday treat! There are many different versions, so you may want to add some ingredients of your own and call it your home brew.
Ingredients
500ml wine
4 cinnamon sticks
1 orange sliced
½ lemon sliced
5 juniper berries
2 star of anise
10 cloves
1 cup/200g sugar
Preparations
Combine all ingredients in a pot and give them a quick stir.
Heat until the wine just barely reaches a simmer over medium-high heat. (Don’t cook too hot — you don’t want to boil off the alcohol.)
Reduce heat to low, cover, and let the wine simmer for at least 15 minutes.
Use a fine mesh strainer, remove and discard the orange slices, cloves, cinnamon sticks, star anise and ginger.
Serve warm in heatproof mugs, topped with your favorite garnishes. Enjoy!
Hiking the Saxon Wine Trail is divided into 6 daily stages averaging 8 miles, or 5 to 6 hours of walking per day. 2022 is 30th Anniversary.
The Saxon Wine Trail, a 50 mile walk and wine tasting experience through more than 850 years of wine making, is easily divided into six stages with an average of eight miles or five to six hours of walking a day. This region of German, nicknamed the Saxon Rivera, follows parts of the Elbe River as it winds its way through countryside near such historic Saxon towns as Pirna, Meissen and Dresden, all renowned for their porcelain, art, architecture, history and castles. With temperatures averaging about 75 degrees during summer and orchards and vineyards brimming with fruit, the trail is also lovely in autumn when the leaves are ablaze of colors. For those who’d rather drive, it’s 34 miles by car.
Either way, according to Victoria Larson, USA Press Representative, State Tourist Board, visitors can sample over 60 grape varieties – including Riesling, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris and Pinot Noir, but also Traminer, Scheurebe and the Goldriesling, which is only grown on the Elbe.
“You will pass beautiful villas and magnificent castles,” says Larson. “A detour into the old town of Dresden leads to the Zwinger, Semper Opera and Frauenkirche. In Radebeul, you can take time to visit the Saxon Wine Museum Hoflößnitz and the beautiful 850-year old winery in Europe at Wackerbarth Castle where you can treat yourselves to fabulous tours, meals and a great gift shop. The journey continues to Meissen: the imposing castle hill with the cathedral and Albrechtsburg Castle can be seen from afar. The WineExperienceWorld of the Saxon Winegrowers’ Cooperative Meissen offers information and insights into the history and current practices of winegrowing in the area.”
In the last 40 years, Saxony has experienced a true renaissance of wine growing with young and experimental vintners leading the way. Although Saxony is still Germany’s smallest and northernmost wine region, currently there are not only many professional growers but also about 1000 hobby winemakers. Typically grapes are grown on hillside terraces requiring that most tending and harvesting be done by hand.
The northern starting point of the Saxon Wine Route is the charming village of Diesbar-Seusslitz with its beautiful baroque castle surrounded by formal gardens.
The most prominent winery of the route is Schloss Proschwitz housed in a baroque-style castle built by one of Saxony’s oldest families who lost their home after WWII but bought it back after reunification. With dedication, labor and love, they recreated one of Saxony’s leading and largest privately owned wineries. Their wine production includes a range of wines from Pinot Gris and Pint Blanc to Müller-Thurgau and Goldriesling, a Saxony speciality. The castle and vineyard are year-round destinations for events and weddings as well as the concerts that are part of Dresden’s famous music festivals.
Not far away, Meissen, once the seat of the Saxon electors which gives it a special prominence in this historic land, also has extensive vineyards.
“Two trademarks of this 1000-year-old city on the Elbe are the Albrechtsburg, an enormous Gothic cathedral, and the well-known Meissen porcelain manufactory, MEISSEN, a must-visit destination for anyone interested in design and craft, jewelry, art and architecture,” says Larson.
The capital city of Dresden with its magnificent skyline is notable for the dome of the Protestant Church of Our Lady (Frauenkirche), the smaller dome of the Catholic Palace Church (Hofkirche), the roof line of the Semper Opera and the ornate gates to the museums in the Zwinger Palace.
Just down the river, the next highlight is Castle Pillnitz, the summer palace of the Wettin kings and Saxon electors. The baroque palace is home to the Arts and Crafts Museum of the Dresden State Art Collection as well as a castle museum and has an extensive formal garden and park. The most spectacular way to get to the palace is by paddle boat from Dresden as the riverbank is lined with beautiful villas and castles built by noble families who wanted to be near the king.
A magnificent winery in Pillnitz with views over the Elbe River Valley is Weingut Klaus Zimmerling, where visitors can stay for a wine tasting and view the fields and the outstanding sculptures by Malgorzata Chodakowska.
The last stop on Saxony’s Wine Trail is the medieval town of Pirna, the gateway to Saxon Switzerland. Pirna is famed beyond the borders of Saxony due to the paintings by Venetian artist Bernardo Bellotto, the nephew of the famous Italian painter, Canaletto, who often took his uncle’s name to further his own reputation. The medieval town is much as it has always been and features winding streets, leading visitors in between town houses, charming courtyards and numerous fountains, and taking you on a journey through the past.
Every autumn, towns like Pirna and Radebeul host wine festivals where visitors get to taste the local wines and meet regional growers. Saxony and Dresden is an easy car or train ride from Berlin or Frankurt both of which have many direct flights from the U.S. and Canada.
Well, this doesn’t bode well I think upon seeing the entrance to Castillo de La Mota blocked by women archers dressed in long skirts under magenta jumpers each stitched with the insignia of a yellow bird with spiky feathers. But what is most daunting about the scene is that their bows are raised, arrows notched, and the strings pulled back. If they let go, we’ll be hit with a barrage of arrows.
A man behind me grouses to his wife “another day, another castle” but then stops as he sees what is in front of us. It certainly may be another castle here in Spain but it’s not a typical day. I mean, when was the last time you were threatened by Medieval female warriors?
“Password,” shouts the tall woman who looks like she’s in charge.
“Isabelle,” I call back without thinking.
“Isabella,” she responds.
Oops.
But it’s good enough. The archers lower their bows and part, allowing us to cross the drawbridge into the fortified castle, one of many that belonged to Queen Isabella of Spain.
We are in Medina del Campo, a town known since the 15th century for its fabulous fairs and markets as well as being one of the places Queen Isabella of Spain called home. And though it’s the 21st century, once inside the castle keep it well could be seven centuries ago.
We are not only in Isabella’s castle, we’re also in her time. Men, women, and children are dressed in the everyday garb of 15th century Spain, soldiers wear bright red doublet cut with yellow inserts, red pantaloons that stop above the knee, white stockings and leather shoes ranging in colors like blue, red, and beige.
I don’t know much about 15th century weaponry beyond bow and arrows and swords–and even that is very limited. But here the soldiers not only carry broad swords and rapiers, but also pikes and spears. Silver helmets top their heads and somewhere metal collars, part of a suit of armor.
La Mota isn’t a fairy tale castle, it was a large strong fortress that the townspeople as well as the King and Queen could go for refuge. She and her husband Ferdinand II lived in a royal palace in the town’s major plaza though Isabella wrote her will and took Last Rites at age 53 at La Mota. Dating back to the 11th century, it grew through the centuries becoming the largest castle in Castile.
Called La Mota because it is on a small hill rising above the town, it has turrets (2), towers (4), thick walls and a courtyard. Unguided tours are available as are guided tours which can be booked here
In her day, Isabella, one of the few women rulers at the time, would have dined on rabbit, deer, bear, lamb, and bread. She would have enjoyed leeks but little else in the way of vegetables. Juan Alejandro Forrest de Sloper whose blog Book of Days combines his passions for world cuisine and as an anthropologist with a focus on rituals and celebrations. De Sloper was a professor of anthropology at Purchase College, S.U.N.Y for 32 years but he also spent time living throughout the world and learning to cook in all sorts of kitchens.
In his post on Isabella he shares a dish from Libre Del Coch, a Catalan cookbook—the first written cookbook–written by Robert de Nola who went by the pseudonym Mestre Robert who was the chef to King Ferdinand I of Naples. The Catalan version was published in 1520 in Barcelona and translated to Castilian Spanish five years later. Parts of the cookbook are based on a famous medieval cookbook titled Llibre de Sent Soví.
The cookbook includes classic dishes that were popular with the wealthy (and Isabella was surely that) during the 1400s. Casola de Carn or Meat Casserole is like many recipes or receipts as they were called then, there’s no list of ingredients or amounts. It’s all a little murky for 21st century cooks, and phrases like “all the fine flavorings” are a little—no make that a lot baffling. There are also ingredients such as aggrestal (spelled in the recipe as agressta) means wild plant which can sure cover a lot of ground.
Casola de Carn
(Meat Casserole)
Cut the meat into pieces the size of a nut and fry it in pork fat. When it is well fried put in some good broth and set it to cook in a casserole. Add all the fine flavorings and saffron and a little orange juice or agresta and cook well until the meat begins to fall apart and only a small amount of broth remains. Add three or four eggs beaten with orange juice or agresta. When your master is ready at table, turn the meat four or five times to let the sauce thicken. When it is thick, take it from the fire and serve it in bowls, sprinkled with a little cinnamon on each.
There are some people who do not add eggs, or spices except cinnamon and cloves. The meat is cooked as stated above.
They add vinegar, for the flavor. It appears that many people do it in the following manner: the meat is left whole stuffed with cinnamon and cloves, and with the other spices in the broth. The meat must be turned from time to time so that it doesn’t cook more in one part than in any other. You can leave out the cloves and cinnamon if you follow the other directions correctly.
As wonderful as Isabella’s meal might have been, our luncheon at El Motero in Medina del Campo probably was equally good. Because Medina del Campo is a stop on the wonderful Rueda Wine Route, we indulged in the local wines and dined on fish, baby lamb, and a variety of whimsical dishes such as canelón de mango relleno de frutos de mar y gelatina de gazpacho (Mango cannellon stuffed with sea fruit and gazpacho jelly), tartar de tomate, aguacate,salmón marinado ,wakame sobre pan de Cerdeña (Tomato Tartar, Avocado, Marinated Salmon, Wakame on Sardinian bread)and Mini san Jacobo de lomo asado y salsa de piña (Mini San Jacobo roasted loin and pineapple sauce).
