800 feet above the Pacific coastline, the million-dollar view from what is now Nepenthe cost Orson Welles and Rita Hayworth $167 and change when they bought an abandoned cabin along Pacific Coast Highway 1 in 1944.
The golden couple—he a successful director and she a flame-hair actress—were traveling home to Los Angeles from San Francisco where they’d been selling war bonds along with actor Joseph Cotton. Paid in gas coupons, they decided to use them by traveling the new highway, just seven years old which had taken 18 years to build.
Taking a turn up a dirt road to picnic, they discovered an abandoned log cabin dating back to 1925 with a panoramic view of the craggy shores far below. Told they could buy it that very day, they came up with the cash, and the deal was sealed.
Rita measured the windows for curtains and a new stove, Wells, the director of “Citizen Kane” in which Cotton starred, considered laying a pipe to carry gas to the kitchen. Without even spending the night, they climbed back in the car and headed south. Three years later, after numerous break-ups and reunions, they divorced. They had never made it back.
In 1947, Bill and Lolly Fassett chose the location, paying $22,000 for the property though it would take another two years to actually receive the title from Welles and Hayward. The two moved there with their five children and in 1948 hired Rowan Maiden, who studied under Frank Lloyd Wright at Taliesin West in Arizona, to design the restaurant.
Maiden created an organic and open space to take in the views of both the Santa Lucia Mountains and the southern coast of Monterey County. According to Nepenthe’s website, legendary Big Sur builders Frank and Walter Trotter erected the structure using native materials such as redwoods hewn from the canyons and adobe bricks, which Lolly made with her own hands.
South of Monterey, the road, is breathtaking and treacherous with hairpin turns and tight corners and nothing between the edge and the rocky shore below, the property lies between Pfeiffer Canyon Bridge and Castro Canyon. There are no off-ramps, torrential rains trigger landslides and since 1937, parts of Highway 1 have been closed more than 55 times.
Just over 30 miles or 44 minutes from Carmel-by-the-Sea, there’s usually a wait for those wanting to eat at Nepenthe and Café Kevah (the name of founder Bill Fassett’s mother, a one-time suffragette, numerologist, and astrologer to the stars) below. Still owned by the Fassett family, the vibe is totally Big Sur—blooming plants, colorful umbrellas and pillows, friendly waitstaff, open-air dining, a phoenix carved out of driftwood, a Bohemian-chic look, and a sense that the 60s never died. The Phoenix Shop at Nepenthe which opened in 1964 is the place to buy artwork, fabrics, furniture, Nepenthe Aromatherapy by Moss Botanicals, foodstuff, and jewelry such as the Simply Cool series— sterling silver and high karat gold mixed sprinkled with diamonds and vivid gemstones, created by jeweler Goph Albitz. But these aren’t trinkets. One personal favorite, a bracelet goes for $4500. And no, I didn’t buy it.
It’s also a place for celebrities to stop by. Liz Taylor and Richard Burton dined here when filming “The Sand Piper” nearby. Kim Novak, Clint Eastwood, Steve McQueen, Salvador Dali, Anais Nin, Ernest Hemingway, and Hunter S. Thompson have stopped by. Much more recently, visitors included Kim Kardashian, Anne Hathaway, Henry Cavill, and Natalie Portman.
As for the name, Nepenthe (ni-pen-thee) is a Greek word referring to a potion that takes away grief, translating to “isle of no care” or “a place to find surcease from sorrow.” In his poem, “The Raven,” Edgar Allen Poe “The Raven,” writes “Respite—respite and nepenthe from thy memories of Lenore; Quaff, oh quaff this kind nepenthe and forget this lost Lenore!”
The beauty here is such that it does indeed provide solace and forgetfulness of sorrow. And the food, including their sublime Ambrosia Burger, helps as well.
The following recipes are courtesy of Nepenthe:
Ambrosia Burger
“Nothing takes the place of eating an Ambrosia Burger, seated inside the restaurant or on the veranda perched high above the ocean,” the owners of Nepenthe write in the introduction to this recipe. “But sometimes, you can’t visit us, and you are longing for a taste of Big Sur at home. The preparation of our Ambrosia burger is very simple, but it is deceptive. The quality of the ingredients and the temperature of your grill are most important.”
THE PATTY
For 4 of these delicious Ambrosia burgers, you’ll need:
1 ½ lbs. of fresh ground beef selection of the finest, coarse ground, low fat beef is extremely important. Ours is ground fresh each morning before we receive it. Many butchers have tried to recreate “Nepenthe Grind,” but we only get ours through Carmel Meats and Specialty Foods in Marina, CA. There is none better.
Form the meat into a six-ounce ball and roll in your hand to form together. Lay the ball on a clean flat surface and press flat. The edges of the patty should be cracked and broken, not perfectly smooth. This really enhances flavor.
The patty must be cooked on a hot open brazier, either over medium hot coals or open gas flame. Turn the burger only once, immediately when you see blood rise to the top. When you see clear juice rise on the cooked side, you’ve got a perfect medium rare.
Wait as long as possible to add cheese, as this slows down cooking time.
AMBROSIA SAUCE
- 1 cup Mayonnaise
- ¼ cup Tomato Sauce
- ¼ cup Mild Chile Salsa
Mix the ingredients fresh for your Ambrosia Sauce. It is very simple, but what a great flavor it adds to your burger.
THE BUN
- 4 each fresh steak rolls
- 2 tbsp butter
Butter the buns before you toast them. When you turn your burgers, toast the buns on a pre-heated flat grill, or, over the open flame next to your burgers.
THE PROCEDURE
Upon request, have fresh lettuce, sliced tomato, onion and thin slice cheddar cheese nearby on a plate. The first bite of the burger should almost burn your palate. We believe you can never serve an Ambrosia Burger too fast. Serve with tossed green salad and French fries.
Triple Berry Pie
This is one of the best desserts we’ve ever served. Only slightly sweet, the tart fruit and delicious crumb topping are excellent when heated, then served with a scoop of rich vanilla ice cream.
The recipe for the filling will yield one 10″ pie
THE FILLING
- 3 ½ cups frozen raspberries
- 3 ½ cups frozen blackberries (boysenberries)
- 3 ½ cups strawberries
- 3 TBSP corn starch
- 2 oz. Grand Marnier
- ½ cup brown sugar
- 1 ½ tsp. cinnamon
Defrost frozen berries in a colander to drain excess juice. Mix all ingredients together and let sit for five minutes.
CRUST PREPARATION – (FOR ONE 10″ CRUST)
- 3/4 cup + 1TBSP ap flour
- 1/2 tsp. sugar
- 1 pinch salt
- 7 TBSP cold unsalted butter (or 3 1/2 oz)
- 1-3 tsp heavy cream
With first four ingredients in food processor, pulse until garbanzo sized chunks are formed. Bring dough together with cream. Chill up to ½ hour, roll out and fit into pie pan, flute edges.
NUT CRUMB TOPPING FOR ONE PIE
- ¾ cup walnuts
- ¾ cup ap flour
- ¾ cup rolled oats
- ¾ cup brown sugar
- 1/2 cup cold unsalted butter
Pulse all ingredients in food processor until garbanzo sized chunks are formed.
TO PREPARE
Mix filling ingredients together, let sit five minutes, fill in prepared crust, top with nut crumb topping, covering all berries. Bake in a preheated 350 degree oven until golden brown and bubbles rage!
