Category: Recipes

Bubbles Add to the Fun: Boba POPS Fruit

Cocktail Recipes, Drink

For those who didn’t read my story in Wednesday’s Herald Palladium, first shame on you, but one of the great new food offerings available online is also one of my fav new drinks. Boba POPS Fruit. the first and only liqueur-filled popping bobas, incorporates the bubble tea concept which is all the rage and takes it over-the-top. Made by Unifying Spirits, Boba POPS Fruit are pearls of vodka and fruit juice that burst when eaten. Available in a variety of flavors and colors–strawberry, raspberry, peach, lychee, blueberry and (in the fall only) pumpkin–they’re Kosher, gluten-free and vegan and can be consumed as is, over ice, ice cream, and tea.

I like to serve them on my patio (small as it is) in cocktail glasses accompanied with charcuterie and cheeses from The Cheese Lady at The Market in downtown St. Joseph, Michigan.

A Flamboyance of Flamingos

  • 2oz Gin
  • 3/4oz Lemon Juice
  • 1/2oz Undiluted Honey
  • 1-2 halved Strawberries
  • 1 bar spoon Plain Greek Yogurt
  • 2-3 bar spoons Strawberry Boba

In a cocktail shaker muddle strawberries with lemon and honey. Once muddled add gin and yogurt, shaking with ice. Double strain in a rock glass over crushed ice. Garnish with fresh cracked black pepper and enjoy.

Recipe courtesy of Mix, Shake, Stir

The Undead Gentleman⁣

“This cocktail is a posh twist on the classic Zombie. Spotted in the Smuggler’s Cove book, I had to give it a try,” writes mixologist who goes by Mix, Shake, Stir on his/her posts. “A fierce tiki drink served up in a fancy coupe? I’m in with pinkies up. ⁣ My drink is a version of the original as I did not have the original spec of white absinthe, and I used BG Reynolds Falernum instead of Velvet Falernum. My version sure tasted good nonetheless! Classic zombie taste but make it FANCY.”

  • 1 dash absinthe⁣
  • 1.5 oz blended aged rum⁣
  • 1 oz black overproof rum⁣
  • 1/2 oz BG Reynolds Falernum @bgreynolds ⁣
  • 1/2 oz BG Reynolds Cinnamon syrup @bgreynolds ⁣
  • 1/2 oz fresh grapefruit juice⁣
  • 1/2 oz fresh lime juice⁣
  • 1 dash angostura bitters⁣
  • Garnish: lime and grapefruit twists⁣

Rinse a chilled coupe with absinthe, dump excess. Add remaining ingredients to a cocktail shaker with ice. Shake until well chilled. Strain into prepared glass. Garnish with intertwined lime and grapefruit twists.⁣

⁣Rinse a chilled coupe with absinthe, dump excess. Add remaining ingredients to a cocktail shaker with ice. Shake until well chilled. Strain into prepared glass. Garnish with intertwined lime and grapefruit twists.⁣

Cobra’s Fang

  • 1.5 oz Jamaican dark rum
  • 0.5 oz overproof Demerara rum
  • 0.5 oz falernum @bgreynolds
  • 0.5 oz fassionola syrup BG Reynolds
  • 0.5 oz fresh lime juice
  • 0.5 oz fresh orange juice
  • 1 dash absinthe
  • 1 dash angostura bitters

Garnish: mint, lime wheel, orange peel snake (optional)

Add ingredients to a blender with 6 oz crushed ice and blend for about 5-6 seconds. Pour into a tiki glass. Garnish with mint, lime wheel, and a vaguely snake-like orange peel.

“I have been itching to try this cocktail which is one of the OG tiki cocktails created by Don the Beachcomber,” writes Mix, Shake, Stir about the recipe above. ‘This one contains a difficult to find ingredient—fassionola syrup. This syrup is made with a variety of tropical fruits including passion fruit, as well as hibiscus. I am grateful to have gotten my hands on the @bgreynolds version which was lovely in this drink. ‘⁣⁣

This drink tastes like a quintessential tiki drink—strong, tropical, and will bite if you’re not careful. Cobra’s fang indeed!⁣⁣

Rosemary Bourbon Twist

Servings 2 cocktails

Equipment

  • 2 Old Fashioned glasses

Ingredients

  • 4.5 oz Bourbon
  • 3 oz Peach Boba POPS
  • 2 oz Lemon Juice
  • 2 oz Simple Syrup
  • 4 dashes Aromatic Bitters
  • 4 sprigs Rosemary
  • 2 Lemon Slices (garnish)
  • Combine the Bourbon, Lemon Juice, Simple Syrup, Bitters, and 2 sprigs of Rosemary in a cocktail shaker without ice.
  • Muddle the Rosemary with the mixture for about 30 seconds.
  • Add ice to the cocktail shaker and shake for about 25 seconds.
  • Strain equal amounts into the two Old Fashioned glasses (neat or over ice).
  • Top each glass with 1.5oz Boba POPS.
  • Garnish each glass with a sprig of Rosemary and a Lemon Slice.

Maangchi’s Big Book Of Korean Cooking: From Everyday Meals to Celebration Cuisine: Authentic Korean Recipes for Every Home Cook

Asian cooking, Cycling, Uncategorized

Have a yen for mandu (Korean dumplings), bingsu (shaved ice with red beans and fruit), and traditional kimchi (tongbaechu-kimchi)? Two cookbooks by Emily Kim, better known as Maangchi (Korean for hammer and pronounced MAHNG-chee) opens up the world of Korean cuisine, making it easy for home chefs to cook their favorite dishes in their own kitchens.

Maangchi, a YouTube star with 6.4 million followers, didn’t plan on becoming a celebrity chef.

But we’re glad she did because now we can cook Korean at home.

The New York Times described her as “YouTube’s Korean Julia Child,” calling Maangchi’s Big Book of Korean Cooking as one of the  Best Cookbooks of Fall 2019 while Bon Appetit listed it among the “Fall Cookbooks We’ve Been Waiting All Summer For.” Publishers Weekly called Maangchi’s cookbook Real Korean Cooking, “an essential cookbook for anyone who wants to learn to prepare authentic Korean cuisine.”

Whether you want to dive deep into Korean cookery or keep it casual, Maangchi offers both essential techniques, pantry list, and a wide array of recipes. can watch 560–and counting videos–to learn how to make many of her dishes.

Chamchijeon (Tuna Pancakes)

  • 1 5-ounce can of tuna
  • ¼ cup chopped onion
  • 1 garlic clove, minced
  • ½ teaspoon kosher salt
  • ¼ teaspoon ground black pepper
  • 1 large egg, beaten
  • 1 tablespoon toasted sesame oil
  • 2 tablespoons flour if using non-Korean tuna (1 tablespoon if using Korean tuna)
  • 2 tablespoons canola oil

Strain out the liquid from a can of tuna and place it in a bowl.

*tip: You can use cheesecloth, paper towel, or just squeeze with your hands to get the excess liquid out

Add all ingredients except canola oil and mix well.

Heat up a non-stick pan and spread 1-2 tablespoons canola oil.

Scoop a spoonful of the tuna mixture with a spoon and place it on the heated pan.

Press slightly and round the edges with the spoon.

Make 6 small size pancakes with the tuna mixture.

When the bottom is cooked golden brown, turn it over and cook until both sides of the pancakes are golden brown.

Total cooking time is 3-5 minutes.

Transfer the cooked pancakes to a serving plate and serve with rice.

Pan Fried Tofu with Spicy Sauce (Dububuchim-yangnyeomjang)

“Among the side dishes made with tofu, Korean pan-fried tofu with seasoning sauce is one of the easiest to make and a favorite among all Koreans,’” says Maangchi about this recipe. “With just one block of tofu, you can create a delicious side dish in 10 minutes! The flavorful sesame oil, toasted sesame seeds, soy sauce, garlic, minced onion, and green onion come together to enhance the taste, making it a very popular side dish.

“When I lived in Toronto, Canada, I often went to the St Lawrence farmers market on the weekend. It was in a big building, and in the basement there was a store where people were lining up every weekend to buy some special tofu. My friend was a regular customer at the store, so she let me taste it when she bought it. I was very surprised!

“Firstly, because it was so expensive, and secondly because it was a very simple tofu recipe. They were selling the tofu cubed and cooked with sauce for $7.99! The sauce was made with soy sauce and sugar or maple syrup.It seemed like a very easy recipe to make. I took my friend to a Korean store and bought a package of tofu for 99 cents. We came home and we cooked it together.

“She was very happy and since that time, she has been doing all kinds of experiments with her favorite tofu side dish. She invents her own sauce these days. : )Shortly after I started my YouTube channel, I posted this recipe along with a video, and now I have remade it with more precise measurements and updated proportions.Enjoy making it deliciously!”

Serves 3 to 4

  • 1 block of tofu
  • 3 tablespoons vegetable oil
  • 2 tablespoons soy sauce
  • 2 teaspoons gochu-garu (Korean hot pepper flakes)
  • 1 garlic clove, minced
  • 2 tablespoons finely chopped onion
  • 2 green onions, chopped
  • 2 tablespoons toasted sesame oil
  • ½ teaspoon sugar (optional)
  • 1 tablespoons toasted sesame seeds

Prepare the Sauce:

In a bowl, combine the soy sauce, gochu-garu, minced garlic, chopped onion, chopped green onion, sesame oil, and sugar (if using). Mix well and set aside.

Prepare the Tofu:

Cut the tofu into 8 equal pieces, each about ¼ inch thick.

Pat each piece of tofu dry with a cotton cloth or paper towels.

Cook the Tofu:

Heat the vegetable oil in a skillet over medium-high heat.

Add the tofu pieces one by one to the skillet. Be sure not to crowd them, so they don’t stick to each other. Turn down the heat to medium and cook for about 5 minutes, until the bottom turns crunchy and golden brown.

Flip the tofu pieces with a spatula and cook for another 5 minutes until both sides are light golden brown and crunchy.

Serve:

Transfer the cooked tofu to a serving plate.

Drizzle the seasoning sauce evenly over each piece of tofu.

Add seasoning sauce

Sprinkle with toasted sesame seeds and some additional chopped green onion.

Sprinkle sesame seeds

Serve with rice as a side dish.

Food, Travel, & Recipes: Experience “A Day in Tokyo”

Uncategorized

Serious foodies have always raved about Tokyo’s fabulous food finds in a city where no matter the time of the place, there’s always a treat ready to be had.

Now, Brendan Liew and Caryn Ng, who established chotto, a pop-up Japanese café in Melbourne, Australia, where they introduced the art of traditional ryokan-style breakfasts, have written A Day in Tokyo (Smith Street Books), a cookbook highlighting the best of Tokyo’s round-the-clock cuisine and culture.

Lew has worked at the three-Michelin-starred Nihonryori RyuGin in Roppongi, Tokyo, and Hong Kong, and also studied the art of ramen-making in Japan before delving into kappo and modern kaiseki cuisine. In Melbourne, he worked at Kappo, Supernormal, Golden Fields and Bistro Vue. Together, Brendan and Caryn have traveled extensively through Japan’s countryside and major cities to explore, learn, and live the country’s culture and gastronomy.

As its name implies, the book is divided into chapters by the time of day starting with Early when the streets are silent. Recipes in this section include Kitsune Udon, a noodle dish made with deep-fried tofu, sea mustard, and sake and Funwari Hottokeki or Souffle Hotcakes.

Mid is a time when people head to their favorite ramen shops, curry houses, and depechika, department store basements filled with grocers, fishmongers, specialty pickle sellers, furikake or places to buy rice seasonings, wines, patisseries, umeboshi or stores selling pickled plums, and food stalls where one can buy rice balls, tempera, bento box meals, and other lunch items.

Late, when the sunsets behind Mt. Fuji and the neon lights of Tokyo flicker to life, is when Tokyo’s boisterous and lively night scene comes to life. Recipes include Chawanmushi, a savory egg custard and Kanikorokke or Crab Croquettes.

The last chapter, Basics, shows how to cook rice, milk bread, and hot spring eggs as well as tempura flour and different types of dashi. This is followed by a glossary of common ingredients in Japanese cooking found in Asian and Japanese supermarkets or greengrocers.

“It would be impossible to dine at every restaurant in Tokyo in a single lifetime. Layer upon layer of dining establishments exist here, stacked on top of each other in high-rise buildings, hidden down long narrow alleyways, and crammed tightly together in warrens. Their only signposts are noren, small-calligraphed signs accompanied by delicately arranged sprigs of flowers or traditional Japanese lanterns hung outside the door,” write the authors in the book’s introduction. “Tokyo is a city where centuries-old restaurants can be found in between modern ones, where third, fourth, and fifth generations of chefs’ neatly pressed white jackets live the life of shokunin, (a word commonly translated as artisan, but which encapsulates so much more) going through the processes their forefathers went through before them.”

The 96 recipes are not necessarily difficult, indeed some are very easy. But for those unfamiliar with Japanese cooking, it may seem daunting. The best approach is to start with recipes like Bifu Shichu Hotto Sando (Beef Stew Jaffles), Tomato Salad with Lime Dressing, or Yakitori (skewers of marinated chicken) that don’t require a long list of unusual ingredients or a lot of steps. And then continue from there.

YAKISOBA PAN

YAKISOBA ROLLS

SERVES 4

Yakisoba pan is a quirky Japanese creation consisting of fried noodles stuffed in bread, specifically a hot dog roll or milk bun. The story goes that a customer of Nozawaya in Tokyo asked for the combination in the 1950s, and the invention has lined the shelves of Japanese bakeries and konbini (convenience stores) ever since.

4 Milk bread rolls (page 216) [below] or store-bought mini hot dog rolls

1 tablespoon unsalted butter or margarine, softened

300 g (10½ oz) Fried noodles (page 99) [below]

beni shōga (pickled ginger), sliced, to serve

  1.  Split the bread rolls in half and spread with the butter. Divide the fried noodles between the rolls and top with lots of beni shōga. Serve immediately (though it also tastes fine cold).

SHOKUPAN

MILK BREAD

MAKES 1 X 2.8 LITRE (95 FL OZ) LIDDED LOAF TIN OR 12 ROLLS

“Our Australian chef friend, who lives in Japan, once made sourdough bread for his Japanese wife and her family,” write the authors in the introduction to this recipe.

“He couldn’t easily find the kind he ate back home, and missed the rustic, country-style loaves. He is a good baker, but we can’t say for certain that his wife and her family were charmed by his efforts. The Japanese are completely smitten with milk bread, you see, and it’s worlds apart from the chewy loaves and hard crusts typical of European breads.

“Milk bread is soft, white, sweet and fluffy: the perfect foil for a multitude of fillings, from cream, custard and red bean to katsu (crumbed and fried cutlets; page 186), fried noodles (see page 121) and curry (see page 127). It is also delicious eaten on its own.

  • 220 g (11/2 cups) bread flour, plus extra for dusting
  • 165 ml (51/2 fl oz) milk
  • 50 g (13/4 oz) caster (superfine) sugar
  • 10 g (1/4 oz) salt
  • 4 g (1/8 oz) dried yeast
  • 60 g (2 oz) butter, at room temperature, diced
  • neutral oil, for greasing

Preferment

  • 220 g (11/2 cups) strong flour
  • 165 ml (51/2 fl oz) water
  • 2.5 g (1/8 oz) dried yeast

Egg Wash

  • 1 egg yolk
  • 2 tablespoons milk

Start by making the preferment. Mix the ingredients together, then cover and leave for 24 hours at room temperature.

The next day, put the preferment in the bowl of a stand mixer. Add all the remaining ingredients, except the butter and oil. Knead on low speed using a dough hook for 5 minutes. Scrape down the side, add the butter and knead for another 10 minutes, or until the dough is very elastic, scraping down the side of the bowl every 2 minutes.

To make a loaf, when the dough is ready, scrape down the side of the bowl again, then cover and leave to rest in a warm place for 1 hour, or until doubled in size. (To make rolls, skip to step 12.)

  1.  Turn the dough out onto a clean work surface and divide into three even pieces. Form each piece into a smooth ball, then cover and leave to rest for 20 minutes.
  2.  Meanwhile, lightly grease a 2.8 litre (95 fl oz) lidded loaf tin with oil.
  3.  Lightly flour your work surface. Turn one rested dough ball over onto the work surface so the smooth side faces down. Using your hands or a rolling pin, stretch the dough to roughly the size of an A4 sheet of paper, or about 20 cm x 30 cm (8 in x 12 in). Fold the left side of the dough over two-thirds of the dough. Press down to remove any large air bubbles, then fold the right side all the way over to the left edge.
  4.  Take the top of the dough with both hands, then tightly roll from top to bottom to create a log. Seal the excess dough by pinching it together, then place, seal-side down, in the loaf tin. Repeat with the remaining two dough balls.
  5. Slide the lid on the loaf tin and leave in a warm place for 1 hour, or until the dough has doubled in size.
  6. When ready to cook, preheat the oven to 180°C (350°F). Bake the bread for 20 minutes, then turn the oven down to 165°C (330°F) and bake for another 15 minutes.
  7. Remove the loaf tin from the oven, carefully remove the lid and turn the loaf out onto a cooling rack. Allow to cool for 30 minutes before slicing.
  8. If using the bread for sando, use it within 2 days. It will be fine as toast for up to 5 days.
  9. To make rolls instead of a loaf, after step 2, punch the dough down and shape into 12 evenly sized rolls. Place on a baking paper-lined tray, leaving a 10 cm (4 in) space between each roll. Cover the tray with plastic wrap and let rest for 30 minutes to 1 hour or until doubled in size.
  10. Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 200°C (400°F).
  11. In a small bowl, beat 1 egg yolk with 2 tablespoons of milk to make an egg wash.
  12. Pour 250ml (1 cup) of water into a metal baking tin and place on the bottom of the oven. Brush the tops of the rolls with the egg wash and bake for 15 minutes, or until the rolls sound hollow when tapped. Transfer to a wire rack and allow to cool before using. The rolls will keep for up to 5 days.

NAPORITAN PAN

NAPOLETANA ROLLS

SERVES 4

This is a twist on the Yakisoba roll (above), this time featuring spaghetti napoletana, a yōshoku (Western-style) favourite in Japan.

  • 4 Milk bread rolls (page 216) [see Yakisoba recipe] or store-bought mini hot dog rolls
  • 1 tablespoon unsalted butter or margarine, softened
  • 200 g (7 oz) dried spaghetti
  • 1 tablespoon olive oil
  • ½ onion, finely chopped
  • 1 garlic clove, finely sliced
  • 125 ml (½ cup) tomato ketchup
  • 125 ml (½ cup) tomato passata (pureed tomatoes)
  • chopped parsley, to garnish
  1.  Split the bread rolls in half and spread with the butter. Meanwhile, cook the pasta according to the instructions on the packet, then drain.
  2.  Heat the olive oil in a large frying pan over medium heat, then add the onion and garlic and cook until soft. Stir in the ketchup and passata. Add the cooked spaghetti to the frying pan and mix well. Divide the spaghetti napoletana between the rolls and top with parsley.

Note

The napoletana rolls can be – and are usually – served cold.

This article originally appeared in the New York Journal of Books.

Fast, Easy, and Delicious: Fabio’s 30-Minute Italian by Fabio Viviani

Celebrity Chef, Chefs, Italian Cuisine, Restaurants

Just discovered this article I wrote years ago about Fabio Viviani and Fabio’s 30-Minute Italian (St. Martin’s Press), which was new at the time, on the website “We the Italians.”

https://www.wetheitalians.com/food-wine-great-lakes/celebrity-chef-fabio-viviani-shares-italian-recipes-new-cookbook

Fabio, best known for his participation in Bravo’s Top Chef seasons 5 and 8 – earning the “Fan Favorite” title -both his on-screen appearances and off-screen successes have propelled him to become one of the most influential culinary and hospitality names in the country.

A recurring guest on national television shows such as Good Morning America, The Rachael Ray Show, and numerous Food Network Shows, such as Cutthroat Kitchen: All-Star Tournament, which he won, off-screen Fabio is a regular headliner at global food events, and he has authored four successful cookbooks: Café Firenze Cookbook, New York Times Best-Seller Fabio’s Italian Kitchen, and Fabio’s American Home Kitchen.

Fabio’s online presence draws millions of viewers yearly with his own cooking show, Fabio’s Kitchen, now in Season 5.

He also has numerous restaurants throughout the United States.

The following recipe is from FABIO’S 30-MINUTE ITALIAN by Fabio Viviani. Copyright © 2017 by the author and reprinted with permission of St. Martin’s Press, LLC.

Salted Caramel Chocolate Cake

“If hot fudge wanted to be a cake, this would be it,” writes Fabio in the introduction to this recipe which is both sinfully delicious and sinfully easy to make. “Yes, it’s a classic sponge cake, but a clas­sic that is rich and chocolaty with hints of cinnamon, rum and espresso that bring home the indulgent chocolaty-ness of it all. I sometimes call this Butterscotch Chocolate Cake because after it’s baked it’s drizzled with a thick caramel sauce that’s lightly salted. Sinful.”

For the cake:

  • 1 teaspoon cinnamon
  • 1 teaspoon nutmeg
  • 1 teaspoon salt
  • 2 teaspoons baking powder 2 teaspoons baking soda
  • ¾ cup cocoa powder 2 cups sugar
  • 2 cups flour
  • ½ cup buttermilk
  • ½ cup heavy cream
  • ½ cup canola oil 2 eggs
  • 1 teaspoon vanilla, extracted from pod
  • 2 teaspoons rum 1 cup hot water
  • 2 teaspoons instant espresso powder

For the caramel:

  • Splash of vanilla extract
  • 1 teaspoon fleur de sel
  • ¼ cup butter
  • ½ cup heavy cream, plus 2 tablespoons
  • 1 cup sugar

Preheat oven to 350°F. Grease and flour two 8-inch round baking pans. Set aside.

In a large stand mixer, combine the cinnamon, nutmeg, salt, baking powder, baking soda, cocoa powder, sugar and flour. Once combined, add buttermilk, heavy cream, oil, eggs, vanilla and rum; mix until smooth. Stir together the hot water and espresso powder. Pour slowly into the cake batter and stir until completely incorporated.

Pour the batter into the prepared cake pans. Bake for about 25 to 30 minutes, until baked through and a toothpick inserted in the middle comes out clean. Remove from oven and allow to cool down completely.

While cakes are cooking, combine the vanilla extract, fleur de sel, butter, ½ cup of heavy cream and sugar in a sauce pot. Bring to a boil and simmer for 5–6 minutes. Cook until caramel in color, then add the final 2 tablespoons of heavy cream. Stir for 20 seconds and let cool before glazing cake.

Have a question, story idea, or just want to chat, reach me at janeammeson@gmail.com

A Jazz Age Murder is Now Available on Audible

Uncategorized

https://www.audiobooks.com/audiobook/jazz-age-murder-in-northwest-indiana-the-tragic-betrayal-of-nettie-diamond/570929

Lost Recipes of Prohibition

Cocktail Recipes, Prohibition

When I was writing my book, A Jazz Age Murder in Northwest Indiana (History Press), about Nettie Diamond, a wealthy widow and pharmacist who was murdered by her fifth husband, a much younger bootlegger named Harry in Indiana Harbor on Valentine’s Day 1923, described by the Chicago Tribune as a ‘juicy . . . page-turner’ of a true crime story about gold digging, adultery, and a slaying on Valentine’s Day, 1923, I was intrigued about how easy it was to get booze back then. And one way, was for drugstores to get a permit during Prohibition to buy medicinal alcohol and distribute it.

That may be why loved Lost Recipes of Prohibition: Notes from A Bootlegger’s Manual by Matthew Rowley (The Countryman Press 2015; $27.95). Nominated for a James Beard Award, it contains more than 100 secret and forgotten formulas for illicit booze

Rowley, who describes himself as specializing in folk distilling and the manufacture and distribution of illicit spirits, was given an old book titled The Candle and The Flame, The Work of George Sylvester Viereck. The interior didn’t contain any poems by Viereck, a popular poet up until his pro-German sensibilities during World War I made him a pariah in the U.S. Instead, the book’s once blank pages contained a plethora of handwritten distilled spirit recipes procured and preserved by a New York pharmacist named Victor Alfred Lyon.

As for Harry, he wasn’t supposed to sell alcohol for non-medicinal purposes like he did—by adding real spirit company labels to his own bottles…but that was Harry who also.  According to Rowley, many pharmacists made alcoholic concoctions to help ailing (or just plain thirsty) customers and many distilleries were allowed to continue to operate to provide product. Rowley points out that during Prohibition, the sale of sacramental wine went sky high as people suddenly became much more religious.

Lyon’s recipes were collected from a variety of sources and at the time he was gathering them, some were a century or so old. Rowley organized the recipes in chapters such as Absinthe, Cordials, and Bitters and Gin; Compounding Spirits and Gin, Whiskey and Rum.

A16Uu2qC24L._SL1500_

Less a cookbook than a history and how-to of spirit making, Rowley does include many of Lyon’s recipes from a simple cocktail that silent screen movie star Mary Pickford enjoyed to the complex (and supersized) such as one for Rumessenz which calls for gallons of ingredients and was used by wholesalers, barkeepers, importers and exporters to make an essence of rum they could use for adding the aroma and tastes of rum to a batch of plain alcohol creating a higher profit margin.

That’s similar to what Harry Diamond did as well and at his trial he told the court he made about $20,000 a month from bootlegging. And that was in 1923 dollars.

Harry went to the electric chair so he didn’t have much time to enjoy his earnings. But in celebration of the newly found recipes of Prohibition, mix up a drink or two and enjoy!

lost_recipes_prohibition_4

Lanizet: Sour Mash Cajun Anisette

  • 3 quarts water
  • 25 ounces sugar
  • ½ teaspoon anise oil
  • ½ tablespoon vanilla extract
  • ½ teaspoon red food coloring
  • 3 cups bourbon or Tennessee whiskey
  • 5 to 7 pounds ice

Pour 1 ½ quarts of the water in a medium stockpot. Note the depth of the liquid. Later, you will boil the syrup to this height. For now, pour in the remaining water and all the sugar. Bring to a boil, stirring until sugar is dissolved. Lower the heat and simmer until the liquid reduces to 1 ½ quarts, 50 or 60 minutes, stirring occasionally. Remove from the heat.

While the syrup is simmering, sterilize five new or well-scrubbed 1-pint canning jars in a deep pot or canning pot. Leave the jars in the hot water until you’re ready to use them. Wash and boil the lids and rings according to the manufacturer’s directions.

When the syrup reaches that 1.5-lquart mark, turn off the heat and remove the pot from heat. Stir in the anise oil, vanilla and food coloring until thoroughly mixed, then stir in the whiskey. Remove the jars from their hot water bath with tongs. Place the jars (don’t touch with your bare hands) on a wooden surface or folded towels and immediately pour the crimson liquid into the jars up to 1⁄2 inch from the tops. Wipe any dribbles or spills from the rims with a clean, damp cloth and place hot lids on top with sealing compound down; screw on the metal rings firmly but not too tightly.

Line your sink with a damp dish towel; it will prevent the hot jars from breaking when they touch the cool surface. Immediately place the jars upright in the sink, then slowly fill it with cool tap water so it covers the jars. As the jars cool, you’ll hear a series of metallic pops and pings; that’s a vacuum forming in each jar. When the jars are cool to the touch, after 5 to 10 minutes, place them upright in a tub of ice, with ice to top off the jars, to cool the anisette as quickly as possible. Once contents of jars are well chilled, about 1 hour, remove the jars from the ice. Label and date the jars, then store upright in a cool, dark place.

Yield: 5 pints

From Lost Recipes of Prohibition.

Emilia Romagna: Cycle like a pro in a host destination for Grand Départ, Tour de France 2024

Cycling, Drink, Gastronomy, Historic foodways, Italian Cuisine, Outdoors, Romagna Toscana
The Italian region of  Emilia Romagna is hosing the Grand Départ of the 111th edition of the Tour de France 2024 on June 29, 2024, for the first time ever.  The first three stages of the iconic cycling race will travel through the breathtaking region of Emilia Romagna, marking the first time in its history that the Tour de France is starting on Italian soil. Beginning in Florence on June 29, 2024, the race promises an unforgettable experience as it traverses through the scenic landscapes and historic cities of Emilia Romagna. _61A5846 Stage #1: Florence – Rimini (206 km, 3800 meters of altitude difference) The first stage sets off from Florence, leading cyclists through a challenging route that crosses the Apennines. This 206 km stage with 3800 meters of altitude difference features picturesque locations such as Premilcuore, Strada San Zeno, Pianetto, Santa Sofia, San Piero in Bagno, Quarto, Sarsina, Mercato Saraceno, Perticara, Novafeltria, the City of San Marino (RSM), and Cerasolo, culminating in an exhilarating sprint along the Rimini seafront. Stage #2: Cesenatico – Bologna (200 km) The second stage starts in the renowned cycling hub of Cesenatico in Emilia Romagna. The route includes several notable Emilia Romagna cities: Cervia, Milano Marittima, Savio, Classe,  Ravenna, San Michele,Godo, Russi, Mezzeno, Faenza, Errano, Rontana, Riolo Terme, Ponticelli, Imola, Toscanella, Castel San Pietro Terme, Ozzano dell’Emilia, San Lazzaro di Savena, Pianoro, and Casalecchio di Reno. The final circuit in Bologna includes a grueling climb on the San Luca hill, promising a thrilling finish. Stage #3: Piacenza –Turin (225 km) The third stage, spanning 225 km, begins in Piacenza, Emilia Romagna, and takes riders across the heart of the Po Valley. This mostly flat route borrows some roads from the spring classic “Milan-Sanremo” and crosses into Lombardy and Piedmont. Cycling 2024 (1) The Grand Départ in Emilia Romagna is not just a sporting event but an extraordinary spectacle that  crosses 38 locations in the region. Known for its deep-rooted cycling traditions, Emilia Romagna will witness a significant media impact and a surge in related activities. Over 200 TV channels worldwide will broadcast the event, with an estimated 1.8 million spectators along the route between Tuscany, Emilia-Romagna, and Piedmont. The influx of visitors is expected to generate over 300,000 hotel stays during the three stages, contributing to an economic impact exceeding 120 million euros._61A5862 Emilia Romagna, already recognized as a top cycling destination, will soon add the prestigious title of Tour de France destination to its list of accolades. For travelers who are inspired by the Tour de France coverage during these first three  stages, here are five cycling experiences to try during a future visit to Emilia Romagna: 1. CiClovia del Santerno (All levels) Located in the Imola area, this 44-km route connects Mordano and Castel del Rio, offering a picturesque ride through the Santerno River Valley. 2. Via della Lana e della Seta MTB (Experienced cyclists) This 130-km route between Bologna and Prato immerses cyclists in the history and beauty of the Tuscan Emilian Apennines. 3. Romagna Toscana Cycling Route (Medium) A 126-km path linking Bagno di Romagna and 4. Ciclovia sulle tracce degli Etruschi (Mountain biking) A trail that combines natural and historical beauty, tracing the footsteps of the ancient Etruscans across Emilia Romagna. 5. Dante’s Cycle Path (Experienced cyclists) A 252.6-km route that celebrates Dante’s heritage, connecting Ravenna with picturesque villages and stunning vistas.
How to get there: Emilia Romagna Region is in the North of Italy, just over the Appenine Mountains from Tuscany, with a number of airlines connecting Bologna to the rest of the world. More info on: https://emiliaromagnaturismo.it/en For additional information on the Grand Depart in Emilia Romagna, please visit:

Announcing this year’s James Beard Foundation Book Award Winners

Chefs, Chicago restaurants, Chicagoland Area, James Beard Awards

Entries for the 2024 James Beard Book Awards were accepted for all cookbooks and other nonfiction food and beverage books published in the U.S. in 2023. Books from foreign publishers were eligible if they bore a 2023 U.S. copyright date or were distributed in the U.S. during 2023.

This year’s winners, announced tonight at Columbia College, were:

Baking and Desserts
Dark Rye and Honey Cake: Festival Baking from Belgium, the Heart of the Low Countries
Regula Ysewijn
(Weldon Owen)

Beverage with Recipes
Slow Drinks: A Field Guide to Foraging and Fermenting Seasonal Sodas, Botanical Cocktails, Homemade Wines, and More  Danny Childs  
(Hardie Grant North America)

Beverage without Recipes
Agave Spirits: The Past, Present, and Future of Mezcals
Gary Paul Nabhan and David Suro Piñera  
(W. W. Norton & Company)

Food Issues and Advocacy
Resilient Kitchens: American Immigrant Cooking in a Time of Crisis: Essays and Recipes  
Philip Gleissner and Harry Eli Kashdan  
(Rutgers University Press)

General
Start Here: Instructions for Becoming a Better Cook  
Sohla El-Waylly  
(Alfred A. Knopf)

International
The World Central Kitchen Cookbook  
José Andrés and World Central Kitchen with Sam Chapple-Sokol
(Clarkson Potter)

Literary Writing
The Migrant Chef: The Life and Times of Lalo García  
Laura Tillman  
(W. W. Norton & Company)

Reference, History, and Scholarship
White Burgers, Black Cash: Fast Food from Black Exclusion to Exploitation  
Naa Oyo A. Kwate  
(University of Minnesota Press)

Restaurant and Professional
Fish Butchery: Mastering The Catch, Cut, And Craft  
Josh Niland  
(Hardie Grant Books)

Single Subject
Pasta Every Day: Make It, Shape It, Sauce It, Eat It  
Meryl Feinstein  
(Hachette Book Group)

U.S. Foodways
Love Japan: Recipes from Our Japanese American Kitchen      
Aaron Israel and Sawako Okochi with Gabriella Gershenson
(Ten Speed Press)

Vegetable-Focused Cooking
Tenderheart: A Cookbook About Vegetables and Unbreakable Family Bonds  
Hetty Lui McKinnon  
(Alfred A. Knopf)

Visuals
The Book of Sichuan Chili Crisp  
Yudi Echevarria  
(Ten Speed Press) 

Cookbook Hall of Fame

Pierre Thiam

Emerging Voice
Mayumu: Filipino American Desserts Remixed
Abi Balingit
(HarperCollins)

Islas: A Celebration of Tropical Cooking

Caribbean, Historic foodways, Uncategorized

“Whatever you cook or don’t cook, this book is a trip to the islands or islas of the world.”

A beauty of a book, all lively colors, and wonderful photos, Islas: A Celebration of Tropical Cooking (Chronicle Books) takes us from island to island through the Indian, Atlantic, and Pacific Oceans.

Photo courtesy of vondiaz.com

“The people who live on tropical islands are among the toughest, scrappiest, most resilient people of the planet,” writes author Von Diaz, an Emmy Award-winning documentarian, food historian, and author of Coconuts to Collards: Recipes and Stories from Puerto Rico to the Deep South (University Press of Florida) . “Storms have always been unpredictable, and generations of islanders have cultivated ancestral knowledge around how to survive and, importantly, how to feed themselves despite it all. With limited ingredients, they cook in ways that are soul-nourishing and emphasize flavor. Making magic out of what’s available.”

Photo courtesy of vandiaz.com

Her cookbook is about preserving the wisdom and values of island people who live in what Diaz describes as the most volatile and vulnerable places on the planet. She follows their histories and how the grapple with their new realities, combining legacy, adaptability, culture, and fortitude.

She tells and shows us cooking techniques and recipes from faraway places such as Santo, Vanuatu’s largest island. Here we meet Primrose Siri who shares such recipes as Laplap, the national dish with its alternative layers of starch such as cassava or yam, seafood or chicken, herbs, spices, and fresh coconut milk cooked oven an earth oven heated with hot rock. Closer to home, there’s Pasteles de Masa, a Puerto Rican Christmas traditional dessert.

Even those who may never cook Arroz Negro Con Pulpo y Calamares (Black Rice with Octopus and Squid) with its rice blackened with squid ink, will be intrigued by this Puerto Rican dish that is definitely eye catching.

Keshi Yena’s history dates back to the first Dutch colonial period in Curaçao, a bustling island some 30 miles off the coast of Venezuela. It is the food of enslaved people, as Curaçao was a slave port, who out of necessity took the rinds of cheeses such as Gouda that were discarded by their masters and stuffing it with meat scraps and other scavenged ingredients.

Photo courtesy of vandiaz.com

Some recipes are simple and easy to make at home without a lot of extra ingredients such as Ensalada Talong (Grilled Eggplant and Vegetable Salad) from the Philippines. Others, such as Monfongo Con Guiso, a common dish of green plantains and chicharron or fried pork skins in Puerto Rico are more time consuming but within reach of any cook who wants to give it a try.

The book is arranged by the chapters including the island’s cooking techniques: Marinating, Pickling + Fermentation, Braising + Stewing, Steaming + In-Ground Cooking, Frying, Grilling, Roasting + Smoking, as well as pantry staples, and sauces, spice blends, and condiments that can easily be made.

Whatever you cook or don’t cook, this book is a trip to the islands or islas of the world.

Chamoru Barbecue Chicken with Juanita’s Fina’denne’

Island: Guam
Yield: 4 to 6 servings | Active Time: 1 hour | Total Time: At least 4 hours

“This adaptation of a classic Chamoru marinade has become my go-to for grilling chicken and pork. It comes together quickly and packs a punch; soy sauce and lemon deeply penetrate the meat, which is then infused with abundant garlic and ginger. Start your marinade the morning of your cookout instead of the night before, as this soy-heavy marinade is potent. Once you begin cooking, baste the chicken with the remaining marinade several times to glaze and char, being sure to let the marinade cook before taking the meat off the grill.”

Marinade:

  • 10 to 12 large garlic cloves, minced
  • 1/4 cup [50 g] finely grated peeled fresh ginger
  • 1 cup [240 ml] soy sauce
  • 1/2 cup [120 ml] fresh lemon juice
  • 1/4 cup [60 ml] white wine vinegar
  • 1/3 cup [65 g] light brown sugar
  • 1 cup [104 g] finely chopped green onions, white and green parts

To make the marinade: In a medium bowl, combine the garlic, ginger, soy sauce, lemon juice, vinegar, brown sugar, and onions and stir well to incorporate.

Chicken:

  • 3 to 4 lb [1.4 to 1.8 kg] bone-in skin-on chicken pieces, dark or white meat
  • Steamed white rice, for serving
  • Fina’denne’ (recipe below), for serving

To make the chicken: Put the chicken pieces in a large resealable bag or airtight container, then pour the marinade over and seal the container. Marinate for at least 3 hours or up to 12.

Remove the chicken from the marinade and place the pieces on a rimmed baking sheet. Reserve the remaining marinade.

Bring a grill to medium heat, then cook the chicken for 25 to 40 minutes, turning often to avoid burning, and brushing with the reserved marinade a few times. Be sure to cook the last application of marinade before taking the chicken off the grill.

Tent the chicken with aluminum foil and let it rest for 5 to 7 minutes before eating. Serve with steamed rice and fina’denne’ on the side.

TIP: If you don’t have access to a grill, this recipe is easy to prepare in the oven. Preheat the oven to 350°F [180°C], then line a large rimmed baking sheet with foil. Arrange the chicken in an even layer, bone-side down. Cover with foil and bake for 35 minutes. To finish, brush with reserved marinade, turn the heat to a high broil, and place the baking sheet directly under the broiler. Watching carefully, and brushing with marinade a few more times, broil for 5 to 10 minutes until the chicken reaches your desired char.

Island: Guam
Yield: 1 ½ cups [360 ml]
Total Time: 5 minutes

FINA’DENNE’
CHAMORU SOY DIPPING SAUCE

A staple of Chamoru cuisine, this soy-based dipping sauce is flavored with lemon, green onions, and fiery chiles. You can replace the vinegar with additional lemon juice if desired. This recipe was inspired by Juanita Blaz, who is profiled in Islas.

Chamoru Barbecue Chicken with Juanita’s Fina’denne’

  • 3/4 cup [180 ml] soy sauce, plus more as needed
  • 1/2 cup [24 g] thinly sliced green onions or shallots
  • 3 to 6 red bird’s eye chiles
  • 1/2 cup [80 g] halved cherry tomatoes
  • 1/4 cup [60 ml] coconut vinegar or apple cider vinegar
  • 1/4 cup [60 ml] fresh lemon juice

In a medium bowl, combine all ingredients and mix well. Taste and adjust soy sauce and chiles as desired.

This review originally appeared in the New York Journal of Books.

The Lula Cafe Cookbook

Chicago Neighborhoods, Chicago restaurants

“more than just ingredients, it is an accumulation of knowledge, sourcing, collaboration, farms, orchards, fields, and artistry.”

The Lula Cafe Cookbook: Collected Recipes and Stories. Jason Hammel. Phaidon. Photography: Carolina Rodriguez.

After almost a quarter of a century as executive chef and co-owner of Lula Cafe, Chef Jason Hammel has written his debut cookbook about his popular restaurant in Chicago’s trendy Logan Square neighborhood. The Lula Café, which was nominated as a finalist for Outstanding Hospitality by the James Beard Foundation, is often described as trailblazing with boundary-pushing new dishes gracing the menu every week and Hammel credited with being in the vanguard of sourcing local and organic ingredients to use in his restaurant well before it became a trend.

The Lula Cafe Cookbook. Collected Recipes and Stories. Jason Hammel. Phaidon. Photography: Carolina Rodriguez.

All of these factors are in play in The Lula Café Cookbook: Collected Recipes and Stories (Phaidon Press). Included are 90 full recipes and 40 “building block” pantry recipes.

Hammel, a consulting chef at Marisol in the Museum of Contemporary Art, Chicago and a co-founder of Pilot Light, a food education nonprofit that invests in teacher leadership and fosters good food choices, has crafted an intriguing and beautiful cookbook. The recipes have very detailed instructions, are accompanied by artistic full-color photographs, and often include a suggestion of how to serve the dish to get the best effect and taste.

Some are esoteric and might be daunting to everyday home cooks who are looking for quick and easy. Count among those the Sweet Corn, Cipollini Onion, and Raclette Tart with its many steps and side recipes and the Toasted Bay Leaf and Chocolate Crème Brûlée, which calls for making both candied hazelnuts and candied kumquats as well as a brûlée base.

The Lula Cafe Cookbook. Collected Recipes and Stories. Jason Hammel. Phaidon. Photography: Carolina Rodriguez.

Hammel says the recipe for Carrots, Plums, and Dill came about when they were experimenting with using a shio koji, the mold used for making such Japanese fermented products as miso, soy sauce, and sake, to marinate meats such as pork shoulder and quail—yes that’s how much they pay attention to detail at The Lula Café. They then moved on to using shio koji for vegetables, which is how Carrots, Plums, and Dill came about. All these dishes would be well worth the effort for those so inclined (and who want to invest in a shio koji) but there are others that have the same sophisticated look but are much more approachable.

One such dish is Pasta Yiayia, a staple at the restaurant. (See recipe below).

Pasta Yiayia. Photography: Carolina Rodriguez (page 27).

“I married into this dish,” writes Hammel. “This is the recipe my wife most associated with her grandmother and namesake, Amalia, who came to Chicago from a village near Sparta, Greece, as a child.  I never got the chance to meet this side branch of the family tree. But I can see Amalia now when I set Pasta YiaYia in front of my children.

“There is nothing more central to my wife’s family than this maternal line—a branch of creativity, grit, beauty, and bravery—traced back to Amalia herself and now carried on by the flavors, stories, ingredients, and techniques in this recipe. I imagine my wife as a child, as her grandmother set down a bowl of pasta dressed with feta, brown butter, garlic, and cinnamon. I can only imagine that these flavors connected her to a place in an old world she’d never known.”

The Lula Cafe Cookbook. Collected Recipes and Stories. Jason Hammel. Phaidon.

Another easy to try is the Turmeric Tangerine Teacake that Hammel praises his pastry chef, Emily Spurlin, for creating and marveling at her skills at melding the flavors so the turmeric bounces off the baking spices, olive oil, and yogurt. And in this season of fresh produce, Tomato Tonnato is another good choice to try.

Turbot with Seeded Crust and Salsify. Photography: Carolina Rodriguez (page 207).

The stories accompanying each recipe shows the almost poetic take Hammel and his staff take to creating the food they prepare and serve. It is more than just ingredients, it is an accumulation of knowledge, sourcing, collaboration, farms, orchards, fields, and artistry.

Lula Cafe’s Pasta Yiayia

From The Lula Cafe Cookbook (Phaidon, 2023)

Serves 4

Yiayia Sauce

  • 1 ¼ cups (10 fl oz/300 g) milk
  • 1 tablespoon Roasted Garlic Purée (recipe follows) + 1 teaspoon oil from the Roasted Garlic
  • 2 teaspoons minced garlic
  • ½ teaspoon ground cinnamon
  • 1 cup (5 oz/150 g) crumbled feta
  • ⅛ teaspoon xanthan gum (optional)

To Serve

  • 8 oz bucatini (Hammel and Lula use Misko No. 2)
  • 1 cup (3 ½ oz/100 g) grated Parmesan
  • Generous ½ cup (2 ¾ oz/70 g) crumbled feta
  • Ground cinnamon, to taste
  • ¼ cup (2 ¼ oz/55 g) butter
  • 2 cloves garlic, peeled and thinly sliced

1. Make the Yiayia sauce. In a small pan, combine the milk, roasted garlic, garlic oil, minced garlic, and cinnamon.

2. Bring to a simmer over low heat and cook for 15 minutes, stirring constantly to prevent scorching.

3. Remove from the heat and let cool.

4. Transfer the milk mixture to a blender, adding the feta and xanthan gum, if using. Purée until smooth.

5. Gently warm the sauce in a large, wide pan over low heat while you prepare the pasta.

6. To serve, bring a large pot of water to a boil over high heat. Salt generously. Add the bucatini to the boiling water and cook until al dente, about 8 minutes.

7. Strain and transfer the pasta to the pan with the warmed sauce, tossing until thoroughly coated.

8. Add half the Parmesan and feta, and toss again until just incorporated. The feta can be chunky and half melted.

9. Transfer the pasta to warm serving bowls or a platter and top with the remaining feta and Parmesan. Sprinkle cinnamon on top and keep the serving vessel(s) in a warm place.

10. In a small pan over medium heat, combine the butter and sliced garlic, swirling them around as the butter melts and begins to simmer. This will be your brown butter. Adjust the heat so the butter foams and simmers without burning. You’ll see the cloudy mixture eventually separate and brown. Shake the pan in short forward-backward movements to aerate the foaming butter and circulate the slowly caramelizing milk solids. As the butter caramelizes, it should smell sweet, rich, and nutty. When both the garlic and butter are golden brown, remove the pan from the heat and drizzle the brown foaming butter all over the top of the pasta. It will sizzle evocatively. Serve.

Roasted Garlic

  • 3 heads garlic, top sliced to expose cloves
  • 2 ½ cups (18 fl oz/550 g) vegetable oil, plus extra as needed

Preheat the oven to 300F/150C. In a small baking dish or loaf pan (tin), add the garlic and the oil. If the oil doesn’t cover the garlic all the way, add more to submerge it. Cover the dish with foil and cook the garlic until golden, tender, and lightly roasted, about 1 hour. Leave to cool, then store the garlic in the oil. When ready to use, squeeze the roasted garlic purée out of the cloves.