Honoring Black History in Mobile Year Round

Though Mobile is a great place to visit any time of the year, this coastal Alabama city has rung in the new year with an impressive dedication to cultural heritage, making it a must-visit for Black History Month. Conde Nast Traveler took note and included Mobile on its “Best Places to Go in 2024” list, in part for the city’s strides in cultural development and dedication to celebrating its African American history.

Last July, the inspirational story of the 110 survivors of the last slave ship to enter the United States, the Clotilda, and the town they created just outside of Mobile in the late 1800s was shared with the world through the opening of Clotilda: The Exhibition” at Africatown Heritage House. This was a pivotal moment in the city’s commitment to embracing its African American heritage. As of this month, Africatown Heritage House is offering group admission to schools, churches and other groups, helping to increase the number of people who can visit in person and learn more about this fascinating story.


Though the opening of Africatown Heritage House was certainly a big part of Mobile’s story of cultural development, there’s plenty more to experience in the city during Black History Month and beyond. Here’s a sampling of both what is new and what’s to come later in the year, for those planning ahead:

  • This past October, the new Historic Avenue Cultural Center debuted its first exhibit, entitled “Remembering the Avenue,” which tells the story of Mobile through the eyes of Black residents, both past and present. The exhibit will run through the end of this year. The center itself is of tremendous historical significance, as it was the city’s Black library before it became the National African American Archives & Museum and eventually the cultural center.
  • Mobile is also developing a Civil Rights and Cultural Heritage District, which will be located along the Martin Luther King Jr. Avenue Corridor. This area was an economic hub for the Black community during the era of segregation. Churches, schools, and other sites throughout the district will become permanent landmarks and the city is in the process of building a memorial park that will be a gateway to the district.
  • The Isom Clemon Civil Rights Memorial Park is set to open in early spring. The park is located on a site where leaders of the city’s Civil Rights Movement met, and a series of statues by local artists will commemorate their efforts and detail the movement in the city. 
  • To round out a journey and to get full insight into Mobile’s Black history and the countless contributions of Black Mobilians throughout the years, take a tour of stops along the Dora Franklin Finley African American Heritage Trail (DFFAAHT). There are trail markers all over the city for a self-guided tour, but a two-hour guided bus tour offers a very personal and comprehensive way to experience the sites.

No trip to Mobile is complete without sampling the city’s unique food scene, especially since 2024 has been officially declared the Year of Food by the State of Alabama. Ginger & Spice and Kanary Bar are just a few of the Black-owned restaurants to try during a visit.

From historical sites to special exhibits to exciting new developments on the horizon, this city offers a unique opportunity to learn about and celebrate the contributions of Black Americans. To experience a destination that truly embraces its African American history and start planning a visit to Mobile, head to https://www.mobile.org/.

Giving You Butterflies!

These Southern Destinations Welcome Guests of the Human and Insect Varieties

Now that fall has officially arrived, there’s plenty of chatter about the amazing hues of the season. But leaves aren’t the only colorful, fluttering signs of autumn; there are also plenty of migrating birds and butterflies in the air right now, and it’s that second group that we want to focus on today. Though National Butterfly Day is on March 14, we’re choosing to celebrate these fascinating creatures today, as many of them are making their way south toward Mexico. Here’s a roundup of places where you can see an abundance of butterflies right now … or even all year round. If any of this inspires YOU to migrate to any of the featured destinations, please check in with us for more information!

Bon Secour National Wildlife Refuge in Gulf Shores, Alabama

               Every fall, butterflies descend upon coastal Alabama as they fly from Canada down the East Coast and to the Gulf of Mexico. Though visitors to this region can see species that include the common buckeye, Gulf fritillary and viceroy, they’re especially drawn here by the prospect of seeing an astounding number of monarch butterflies. By mid-October, hundreds of the orange-and-black butterflies can be spotted along Pine Beach Trail, where they stop for a snack before they continue their flight to Mexico. But they’re not the only colorful critters in the refuge. Countless songbirds have been arriving during the past few weeks and their presence will likely peak in mid-October. As a bonus, the fall wildflowers ensure that while the winged creatures keep the skies and trees ablaze with color, the ground offers an equally dazzling display.

Grand Hotel in Point Clear near Mobile, Alabama

               This luxury hotel in coastal Alabama has been welcoming human guests since 1847 … and butterflies since long before that. The hotel acts as an official waystation for the species, serving as a temporary home to hundreds of monarchs that pause on the Eastern Shore of Mobile Bay so they can rest and feed, building their strength for the final leg of their journey. Since the monarch has been placed on the endangered species list, the resort’s horticulture team is committed to helping butterflies survive and thrive. They’ve dedicated a portion of one of the hotel’s gardens to plants that are especially appealing to the species, including milkweed, verbena, lemongrass and oregano. The monarchs arrive in Alabama in great flocks during the month of October, and guests who stay at the Grand Hotel during this time report hearing the hum of thousands of tiny flapping wings. Besides watching the butterflies around the property, guests can buy monarch merchandise and butterfly-shaped cookies in the Oak & Azalea gift shop. New this year, during the month of October, registered guests can also head to the hotel’s daily “Grandeur, Grit and Glory” celebration at 3:45 p.m. to get a sip of “Monarch Nectar,” a mixture of fresh lemonade, orange juice and butterfly pea flower pollen.

Lockport Elevated Wetlands Boardwalk in Lousiana’s Cajun Bayou

               Situated in southeastern Louisiana, right along the Gulf of Mexico, Lafourche Parish – aka “Louisiana’s Cajun Bayou” – is a haven for all kinds of migrating species, from birds to butterflies, and the best place to see them is by the elevated boardwalk in Lockport. It opened in 2015 as a way for visitors to enjoy the natural beauty of the parish by allowing them to literally enter a swamp for a safe and up-close look at flora and fauna. The 440-foot boardwalk is open daily from dawn to dusk and attracts birdwatchers and photographers from all over the world. Countless species of butterflies can be spotted here, too, from March through May and again from August until early October. As a bonus for visitors who come to see the butterflies on their fall migration, there’s also a chance to see bald eagles in October.

Northlake Nature Center in St. Tammany Parish

               Popularly known as “The Northshore,” St. Tammany Parish is in the southeastern corner of Louisiana and just a short drive from New Orleans. But it feels worlds apart, especially in the parks and preserves and along the trails that remind you that Mother Nature reigns supreme here. Northlake Nature Center is a 400-acre preserve on Bayou Castine, in the town of Mandeville. Visitors come here to hike along trails that take them through forests and wetlands as they search for glimpses of interesting plants, mammals, birds, reptiles, amphibians and insects … including several species of butterfly.

The Butterfly Palace in Branson, Missouri

The Butterfly Palace in Branson, Mo. on Sept. 16, 2017. Photo by Brad Zweerink

               If you can’t make it to the Gulf Coast this fall, no worries …we know a place where you can see butterflies all year round. Families who visit the Ozark Mountain town of Branson can find plenty of fun and adventure in the Great Outdoors, from ziplining to riding roller coasters. But for those days when it’s rainy or chilly, The Butterfly Palace brings nature inside a large dome that offers a rainforest-style adventure you wouldn’t expect to find in a mountain town. The Butterly Palace is home to more than 1,000 live butterflies imported from locales around the world.

Time your visit right and you can even help release a newly emerged butterfly into the makeshift rainforest. Guests are encouraged to dress in red – the color that most attracts the 40 to 60 species of butterfly – and everyone receives a bright red silk flower with a nectar tube in it as they enter the aviary. Walk through and just wait for the butterflies to land on the flower … or you (they tickle!). Guests are issued wrist bands that are good for three days, allowing them to come and go each day for a truly uplifting adventure.

Lost River Cave in Bowling Green, Kentucky

               This unique cave is toured via boat, but a visit to the site doesn’t just include time underground. There’s plenty of nature to explore aboveground, too … including the Charlie Miller Butterfly Habitat. But you’ll have to put this on your to-do list for 2024, as the habitat only operates from Memorial Day through Labor Day. This indoor garden is filled with native nectar plants and is home to butterfly species like monarchs, painted ladies and giant swallowtails. As a special treat, visitors can learn how to create their own butterfly gardens at home so they can enjoy butterflies in their backyard.

Dollywood in Pigeon Forge, Tennessee

               We’d be remiss to talk about butterflies and not mention one of the creatures’ biggest fans, Dolly Parton. She’s loved them since she was a little girl growing up in the Great Smoky Mountains of East Tennessee, and she tells stories of how she used to get in trouble because she wandered off while chasing them. She’s on record as saying that she feels drawn to butterflies because she admires their gentle nature and incredible beauty.

Atmosphere of the Great Pumpkin LumiNights held at Dollywood on October 28, 2019 in Pigeon Forge, TN. © Curtis Hilbun / AFF-USA.com

They have the freedom of flight but – unlike many other flying insects – don’t sting or bite, and she sees a lot of herself in those characteristics. In short, Dolly has claimed butterflies as her spirit animal, and fans can find them represented throughout Dollywood and its resorts. A butterfly appears as the “W” in the Dollywood logo, and the insect is incorporated into the décor of Dollywood’s DreamMore Resort and Spa, in everything from the weave of the hallway carpet to ornaments on the property’s signature Christmas tree each holiday season. As the park celebrates its Harvest Festival, you can even find a giant butterfly made of carved pumpkins.

Experience Clotilda: The Last America Slave Ship and Its Discovery

 Saturday, July 8 marked the grand opening of Clotilda: The Exhibition” at Africatown Heritage House in Mobile Alabama, located in the heart of one of the most significant communities in African American history.

The opening took place on the 163rd anniversary of what’s locally known as “The Landing,” the date when 110 West Africans arrived in the United States – in shackles and against their will – on the last documented slave ship to arrive in this country.

The exhibit tells a big story in a small space that’s not so much larger than the ship that transported the 110 back in 1860 – 52 years after international slave trade became illegal – then was burned and sunk to cover up the crime that had been committed.

The group survived the Middle Passage and five years of enslavement, then created the only community of its kind, one that was entirely run by African-born Americans. There they maintained their African identities; continued to speak their languages; established their own set of governance; and built churches, schools and businesses based on what they knew from their homeland.It’s the ultimate story of resilience, and it’s one that has long needed to be shared.

Discovery

A tale that was once only whispered among descendants of the 110 is now – finally – being heard by people around the world.In 2019, the remains of the shipwrecked Clotilda were identified at the bottom of the Mobile River, providing irrefutable proof of the 160-year-old crime.

The sunken ship also offers a tangible link to the 110, making their descendants a rarity among the millions of African Americans who long for specific details about when and how their ancestors were forcibly brought into the United States.Some pieces of the sunken ship scientifically verified to be the Clotilda are among the artifacts on display in the exhibition, which puts its emphasis not on the ship, but on the 110 men, women and children it brought to the United States.

The exhibit also features a variety of other artifacts, interpretive text panels, and documents.That paperwork includes land deeds and marriage certificates that prove that the shipmates – most of whom didn’t know each other before their capture, many of whom didn’t even speak the same languages or practice the same religions – became a community and, by all reckoning, each other’s family in the absence of true kin. Ripped apart from everyone they knew in West Africa, the survivors eventually established their own family units in the United States.

Survivors Share Their Stories

Because they arrived five decades after international slave trade was abolished and they were quite young at the time – the oldest Clotilda survivors were in their early 20s in 1860 – some of them lived well into the 20th century and documented their first-hand accounts. This means that their children and grandchildren knew the stories of what happened to the 110 – their capture, their enslavement, the Middle Passage, and the burning and sinking of the Clotilda – and passed them down from generation to generation.

Special water tanks hold artifacts recovered from the shipwreck verified to be the Clotilda, the last known slave ship to arrive in America.Credit: History Museum of MobileThe modern-day descendants – ranging from third generation into seventh generation and perhaps beyond – were the first people to visit the exhibition.

Out of respect to the descendants, the exhibition opened in a special preview for them last Thursday, July 6. Throughout the day, hands were held, tears were shed and hugs were shared, all representing a mix of emotions that ran the gamut from grief to joy. 

“I hope the exhibit draws attention to the story of our ancestors’ beginnings and to the challenges the Africatown community faces today,” said Jeremy Ellis, president of Clotilda Descendants Association.On Saturday, which marked the public opening of both Africatown Heritage House and Clotilda: The Exhibition, the community of Africatown came together to invite the world to share in a story that has been 163 years in the making.

The first hundreds of visitors who passed through the doors included descendants from around the country, members of the community, people who have been following this fascinating story for years, the dive team and marine archaeologists who are studying and conserving the boat, the elected officials and donors who set aside the funding to create the site and exhibition, and the museum curators who have worked hard to trace the stories of the survivors.

“I have spent years reading and writing stories of the survivors,” said Meg McCrummen Fowler, the director of the History Museum of Mobile, which curated, constructed and funded the exhibition and operates Africatown Heritage House. “You can’t do that and not be changed. My hope is that visitors to Africatown Heritage House will leave not just having learned historical facts, but rather having had an experience with history that brings the humanity of the story into sharp relief … and maybe even learning something about themselves in the process.”

If You Go:

Africatown Heritage House is open Tuesdays through Saturdays, from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Due to space limitations, tickets for Clotilda: The Exhibition – which will remain at the site for at least three years – are timed and should be reserved online in advance of a visit.

Tickets, which can be purchased up to 60 days in advance, are $15 for adults; $9 for guests ages 65 or more, students age 18 or more with a valid school ID, and active or retired military with ID; $8 for children ages 6 to 18; free for children 5 and under; and free for Mobile County residents with proof of residency (though donations are encouraged).

“I hope that visitors leave Africatown Heritage House knowing that there is still greatness in the community and amongst the people, and feel deeply connected to something larger than themselves,” said Altevese Lumbers-Rosario, vice president of Clotilda Descendants Association. “That is what my ancestor, Kossula, and the remaining founders of Africatown strived to embody, teach their descendants, and anchor their lives to.”

Learn More About Africatown

Africatown Community Organizations
Africatown is a small residential area just north of downtown Mobile. Many of its residents
can trace their lineage to the 110 survivors of the Clotilda, who founded the community after
the Civil War. For more than 150 years, members of the community took steps to ensure that
the incredible story of those who came before them was always honored and never forgotten.
They tapped into their personal resources and gave of their time, ever committed to
preserving their history while ensuring a bright future for the generations to come. Their
decades of dedication has resulted in the establishment of a full array of community
organizations that work diligently – independently and also in support of each other – to keep
the dreams of the original residents of Africatown alive. Listed in alphabetical order, these
organizations include:

  • Africatown Business & Community Panel:
    https://www.africatowncdc.com/africatown-business-community-panel
  • Africatown C.H.E.S.S. (Clean, Healthy, Educated, Safe & Sustainable):
    http://www.africatown-chess.org/
  • Africatown Community Development Corporation: https://www.africatowncdc.com/
  • Africatown Heritage Preservation Foundation: https://africatownhpf.org/
  • Africatown Redevelopment Corporation: created by the Alabama State
    Legislature/HB#448 in 2021: https://atownrc.com
  • Clotilda Descendants Association: https://theclotildastory.com/
  • M.O.V.E. (Making Opportunities Viable for Everyone) Gulf Coast Community
    Development Corporation: https://movegulfcoastcdc.org/
  • Mobile County Training School Alumni Association: http://www.mctswhippets.org/
  • Mobile Environmental Justice Action Coalition: https://www.mejacoalition.org/
    Credit: Mobile County Commission
    Historic Africatown Churches (in order of founding)
  • 1869: Union Missionary Baptist Church, 506 Bay Bridge Road, Mobile, AL 36610
  • 1883: Yorktown Baptist Church, 851 East Street, Mobile, AL 36610
  • 1893: First Hopewell Missionary Baptist Church, 664 Shelby Street, Mobile, AL 36610
    For more information, contact media@clotilda.com.
    Suggested Reading: Books of Interest (all available on Amazon)
  • Barracoon: The Story of the Last “Black Cargo” (Zora Neale Hurston, 2018)
  • Clotilda: The History and Archaeology of the Last Slave Ship (James P. Delgado,
    Deborah E. Marx, Kyle Lent, Joseph Grinnan and Alexander DeCaro, 2023)
  • Dreams of Africa in Alabama: The Slave Ship Clotilda and the Story of the Last
    Africans Brought to America (Sylviane A. Diouf, 2007)
  • Historic Sketches of the South (Emma Langdon Roche, 1914)
  • The Last Slave Ship: The True Story of How Clotilda Was Found, Her Descendants, and
    an Extraordinary Reckoning (Ben Raines, 2022)
  • The Slave Ship Clotilda and the Making of AfricaTown, USA: Spirit of Our Ancestors
    (Natalie S. Robertson, 2008)
    Suggested Reading: Articles of Interest
  • “Clotilda: Journey of the Last American Slave Ship” National Geographic, November
    19, 2019 (Please note: This is behind a paywall, so you’ll need to log in with an email
    address or subscribe to access the story.)
  • “Clotilda, America’s Last Slave Ship: Stole Them From Home, It Couldn’t Steal Their
    Identities” National Geographic, January 16, 2020 (Please note: This is behind a
    paywall, so you’ll need to log in with an email address or subscribe to access the
    story.)
  • “Africatown – A Tradition and Struggle Like No Other” by Joe Womack, posted July 7,
    2014 on the “Bridge the Gulf” blog
    Suggested Films
  • “Clotilda: Last American Slave Ship,” currently showing on Disney+
  • “Descendant,” currently showing on Netflix
    Official Tours
  • Dora Franklin Finley African American Heritage Trail: https://www.dffaaht.org/
    (established in 2005)
  • Visit Mobile, the official tourism organization for the city, worked with Michelle
    Browder of More Than Tours in Montgomery, to mentor a group of aspiring tour guides,
    some of whom are descendants. Browder helped five businesses establish licenses and
    create marketing tools, in addition to coaching them on how to share fascinating but
    difficult stories in both educational and engaging ways. The first class of “Africatown
    Experience Givers” graduated on January 25, 2023. Please see related document in
    the Clotilda.com press room for more details.

I

Celebrating Mardi Gras 2022

Even if you can’t make it down for Mardi Gras this year, there’s no reason to miss out on the fun. Here are our options for celebrating the holiday in person or from home. So start planning so you don’t miss out on the fun.

Mobile, Alabama

Mobile is THE birthplace of Mardi Gras in the United States, with the American celebration dating back to 1703. In this city, where MoonPies are the most coveted parade “throw” and beads hang from trees year-round, Mardi Gras is truly a way of life.

Planned Events:

A full listing of planned events can be found at Mobile.org. All events are subject to change.

  • The 2022 parade schedule extends from January 29 to March 1.
  • A tradition that started in 2021 is continuing to roll into the 2022 Carnival season. The Mobile Porch Parade is a socially distanced way for Mobilians to join in the fun by decorating their homes and registering to be on the official parade map. Everyone is invited to follow the “parade routes” – by way of foot, car or bike – at their leisure.

Celebrate at Home

  • To help get you in the spirit of the season, Toomey’s Mardi Gras features one of the largest inventories of Mardi Gras supplies anywhere in the world. Headquartered in a 70,000-square-foot facility is overflowing with beads, costumes, masks, and decorations. And that’s just the start. They even have MoonPies.
  • Local women-owned business ellenJAY offers a seasonal Mardi Gras Combo Box, Inside are four beautifully decorated mask sugar cookies, four chocolate chip sammies with vanilla buttercream and Mardi Gras sprinkles, and four cinnamon teacakes. The 12-count combo box is $59.95.

Gulf Shores and Orange Beach, Alabama

Head to  Gulf Shores and Orange Beach and celebrate Mardi Gras on the beach.

Planned Events:

A full listing of planned events can be found at gulfshores.com

. All events are subject to change.

  • Don’t miss the Orange Beach Mardi Gras Parade. Organized each year by the City of Orange Beach, this year’s parade is scheduled for Saturday, February 26.
  • They all love a parade. That’s why the city of Gulf Shores offers both land and sea parades on Mardi Gras With the oldest parading order in Baldwin County, the Gulf Shores Mardi Gras Parade will take place at 10 a.m. on March 1. Later that day, the Mardi Gras Boat Parade, organized by Lucy Buffett’s LuLu’s, sets sail. 

Celebrate at Home

  • Possibly the most famous of all Mardi Gras dishes is gumbo, and we’ve got a great recipe to share. Excerpted from Lucy Buffet’s “Gumbo Love” recipe book, Summer Seafood Gumbo. Ignore the name, this gumbo is good year round.

Coastal Louisiana

Coastal Louisiana epitomes the Cajun French expression “Laissez les bon temps roulez,” or as we would say “Let the good times roll.” Historically, New Year’s celebrations overlap the Carnival season kickoff starting on the Epiphany (January 6) and continuing on through Mardi Gras beginning this year on Tuesday, March 1.

Planned Events:

A full listing of planned events can be found on each destination’s website. All events are subject to change.

  • Lafourche Parish is recovering from the impact of Hurricane Ida last summer, but Mardi Gras is giving residents of Louisiana’s Cajun Bayou some reasons to celebrate. Here’s a complete list of the festivities scheduled for this year.
  • Located a short 40 minutes from the French Quarter, St. Tammany Parish is home to such quirky and unforgettable Mardi Gras parades as the Carnival in Covington Parade on March 1.
  • In Southwest Louisiana, the famed Iowa Chicken Run, an event that winds its way through the small town of Iowa to collect ingredients for a celebratory gumbo, is scheduled for March 1.

Celebrate at Home:

Mindy’s Meat Plus Three: Serious Eating Southern Style

It must be a Southern thing because I’d never heard of Meat Plus Three, aka M&3, until my friend Mindy Bianca shared with me six restaurants–three in Mobile, Alabama and three in Spartanburg, South Carolina where a meat-centered meal (think fried chicken, catfish, or ribs) comes with three sides.

“By my calculations, that’s six meats and 18 sides,” says Mindy, who used what she calls Mindy Math to come up with that number. “And goodness knows how many gallons of iced tea.”

Nothing Fancy

Now don’t go looking up M&3 because Google will take you to either an ad for a very fancy BMW or a bunch of three-star Michelin restaurants. Now as wonderful as M&3s are, you’re not going to find serious looking people taking little bites of fancy looking food, chewing slowly and then writing notes in leather bound notebooks. If you see that, you’re not in a M&3 restaurant. How do you know? Because anyone at a M&3 is going to be chowing down big time. And if they have to write something down, they do it on a napkin. I mean, we’re talking seriously down-home cooking and just as seriously delicious.

Alabama

MOBILE, ALABAMA

Mama’s on Dauphin

22o Dauphin Street

            Mama’s is a fixture in downtown Mobile, a popular spot for local businesspeople on their lunch breaks and visitors checking out the nearby attractions. The restaurant truly believes in supporting other small businesses, so they source their produce from local farmers markets and gear their menus to the seasons. If you want to get real serious about all this, Mindy says that technically, Mama’s is a meat and two, as each entrée comes with just two sides. But she’s giving Mama’s a pass because  a lot of those proteins automatically get mashed potatoes and gravy with them/

            “That’s why Mama’s makes it to my list of M&3’s,” she says, noting that her pick here is their Meatloaf Monday with  mashed taters as part of the entrée. “I suggest adding squash casserole and fried okra as the other sides.

Mindy’s Pro Tip: Order an entrée that comes with mashed potatoes … because you still get two other sides!

The Noble South

203 Dauphin Street

            Right down the street from Mama’s, The Noble South is an upscale meat and three, which is an entirely new concept. Afterall, part of the charm of a M&3 are uneven legs on your table or chair (that’s easily fixable by slipping in some sugar packets under the too short leg and yes, sugar packets are another sign of M&3s), cracked linoleum floors—those aren’t fixable with sugar packets so just go with the ambience, or flatware and glassware that doesn’t match. Yelling from the kitchen also counts. So seeing white tablecloths at The Noble South at dinner time was a little off. Could it really be an M&3?

            Turns out that  Chef/Owner Chris Rainosek has the concept down pat. He offers a “lunch plate” with a changing selection of proteins comes with a choice of one, two or three sides. Of course, all is fresh whether it’s from local farms or the Gulf of Mexico. You do know that Mobile is on the Gulf, right?

            Chris changes the menu all the time and everything is good but if fried catfish with sides of heirloom tomatoes, cucumber salad and creamer peas are being offered when you stop by, go for it.

Meat Boss

5401 Cottage Hill Road

            This meat and three is a bit unconventional, as it’s a mashup of the standard M&3 and a BBQ joint. But don’t judge. You can still do a meat and three … just know that all the meat is smoked in-house and totally cuttable with just a fork. Or, better yet, pulled apart with your fingers.

             There’s a six-step process here which can be a little complicated, but you can figure it out. After all, I did and I’m really bad at math.

            First you pick your meat, followed by your bread, sauce, basic toppings, the amazing sides, and your drink. Here’s an example: beef brisket with that Alabama specialty–white BBQ sauce—recipe follows), cheddar cheese,  sides of slaw, Boss beans, and potato salad; and sweet tea to drink.

            It’s really worth the work of figuring out.

South Carolina

SPARTANBURG COUNTY, SOUTH CAROLINA

Wade’s Restaurant

1000 N. Pine Street, Spartanburg

            This is the quintessential meat and three and an absolute legend in South Carolina’s Upstate. Wade and Betty Lindsay opened a small grocery store on this site in 1947 and by the 1970s it had become a full-fledged meat and three. Wade’s is known far and wide for its fried chicken but the chicken pot pie is wonderful and not something you typically find at a M&3. Whether you go for the pot pie or the chicken, you definitely have to order the sweet potato souffle. And since carbs don’t count when you’re on the road, go with the navy beans and creamed corn. Then comes another hard choice—corn bread or yeast rolls. I know, it’s tough. But keep in mind that Wade’s serves some 3500 yeast rolls a day. That’s how good there are.

Mustard Seed BBQ

2000 S.J. Workman Highway, Woodruff

            When you get  outside of Spartanburg, don’t bother with a map. Just follow the aroma of a wood burning smoker coming from the direction of tiny Woodruff. There’s not much to see at Mustard Seed BBQ—it’s just a little  building with a big parking lot. But it’s home to a BBQ/Meat and Many (think Meat Boss in Mobile). The restaurant hosts their famous Soul Food Sunday Buffet. There’s no limit to the number of sides you can get or how many refills you can ask for. and the standard BBQ menu expands to include fried chicken and fish as well as such favorites as mac and cheese, collards, and banana pudding.

 Just don’t be shy. No one’s really counting and if they are, well—you’re just passing through, they won’t see you again.

Charlene’s Home Cooking

1136 E. Blackstock, Moore

            On your world tour of meat and threes, stop by Charlene’s on a Thursday, Friday, Saturday or Sunday. But don’t mix up the days,  because she’s not open the other three days of the week. All in all, that’s probably good news as otherwise we’d have to hit the gym even more often. Charlene and Mike Davis use recipes from Charlene’s family headed by matriarch Ma Bessie. You just got to know she knows how to cook. The restaurant claims, “soul food just like Grandma’s” and I’m totally into that. But just for the record—and honesty’s sake–MY grandma, after raising six kids, never cooked again so what do I know about Grandma’s cooking but  she did take up drinking and the occasional cigarette but you get the idea). If Charlene were my grandma, though, I certainly would want seconds, no make that thirds of heaping helpings of her fried seafood platter along with sides of fried green tomatoes, black-eyed peas and yum-yippity yams.

Duke’s Mayonnaise

Lolly’s Alabama White BBQ Sauce–Alabama White Sauce

Still made using Eugenia Duke’s original recipe dating back to 1917, Duke’s is the Southern king of mayonnaise. Eugenia, who lived in Greenville, South Carolina, made sandwiches in her home kitchen and sold them to army canteens during World War I. They were such a hit that even years later soldiers were still writing to Eugenia asking for her sandwich recipes and jars of her mayonnaise. So in 1923, she started putting it in a bottle and it remains a favorite to this day. Note to Northerners who can’t find Duke’s at the grocery store. You can order it or substitute Hellmann’s. The tastes are slightly different but it works.

  • 1 cup Duke’s Mayonnaise
  • 1/3 cup apple cider vinegar
  • Juice of 1 large lemon
  • 2 Tbsp. white balsamic vinegar
  • 1/4 tsp. granulated garlic
  • 1/2 tsp. salt
  • 1 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
  • 2 1/2 tsp. prepared horseradish
  • 1 tsp. ground mustard powder
  • 1/4 tsp. paprika
  • 1/4 tsp. ground cayenne pepper
  • 1/2 tsp. white sugar
  • 1 tsp. Worcestershire sauce
  • Additional pepper to taste

In a medium bowl, whisk all ingredients together to combine.

Refrigerate until ready to serve.

Pour over grilled or smoked chicken or use as a dip or dressing.