Mezcal is a spirit shrouded in mystery, writes Tess Rose Lampert, in her book “The Essential Tequila & Mezcal Companion: How to Select, Collect, & Savor Agave Spirits.”
It’s a mystery for many reasons, starting with the drink’s murky history, one stretching far into the past. Mezcal’s origins are unknown, but it can be dated back to at least 1500 BCE. That’s the age of a unique small clay still, known as a Capacha vessel, which, when it was discovered contained remnants of agave. Adding to this mystique is the misconception that many, including enthusiastic mezcal and tequila consumers, hold that mezcal is the smoky cousin of tequila.
But, as Lampert points out, ”those wanting to use a family analogy should instead think of mezcal as being tequila’s great-grandmother, holding the place of family matriarch. Tequila, it turns out, is just one subvariety of mezcal—albeit an extremely popular one—while mezcal is the origin of all agave spirits.”
Lampert, who has an impressive resume with university majors in linguistics and philosophy and specializes in Mayan glyphs (the native writing system of the Maya civilization), distills her knowledge and familiarity with Mexican culture to dispel the all-too-common myth that Mesoamerican culture was less refined and civilized than its European counterparts. And she applies that to agave drinks as well. They can be just as complex and sophisticated as any wine grown in the vineyards of France. Her book is not only assists readers in understanding the history of agave drinks but also serves as a companion guide to those who are both passionate and curious about this ancient, distilled beverage as she is.
“The meat of this book is producer profiles with tasting notes and general comments,” she writes. “Aside from serving as an at-a-glance overview of specific products, they offer insight into house production styles, flavor profiles for different agave varieties, and regionally specific characteristics. In addition to general comments and information. The tequila entries each get an individual score from 1 to 5. These ratings are designed to serve as a guide and informed consumers about the good, better, and best bottles in terms of quality and value and, equally important, which bottles you might want to skip.”
Lampert also includes a plethora of cocktail recipes and pairing notes, many gathered from established and emerging mixologists. In that way, she says, those using her guidebook can find new ways for enjoyment.
It’s a way of understanding the millenniums behind the tastes of such cocktails (recipes in her book) as a Pomegranate Margarita—a mix of Siete Leguas reposado tequila and Cenizo Colonial mezcal, pomegranate juice, simple sugar syrup, and torched cinnamon sticks or the Frozen Mezcal Hot Chocolate—milk, simple syrup, vanilla extract, and Cenizo Colonial mezcal topped with whipped cream.
In all, this is a history lesson, a bartender’s manual, and a fresh look at a spirit that has been around for millennia. Lampert drills down deep and yet this is an easily readable book that can be enjoyed at many diverse levels, from a recipe book to an in-depth understanding of mezcal’s past and present.
About the Author
Tess Rose Lampert has been a leader in the world of agave spirits for over a decade. An accomplished educator and writer surrounded by and filled with a lifelong passion for Mexican culture, Tess founded PalateTrip, LLC, a consulting company for top-tier agave spirit brands and restaurants across the U.S. She serves as an ambassador to establish and educate consumers, trade, and media on all aspects of agave. Lampert also offers private events and leads educational tours across Mexico.
OAXACA EXPRESS
BARTENDER SPOTLIGHT: Alex Valencia
“Alex is celebrated as one of the top Mexican mixologists of our time, and this drink is a cult favorite at La Contenta and La Contenta Oeste, the restaurants he co-owns in New York City,” writes Lampert in the introduction to this recipe, noting he created the cocktail back in 2009 before mezcal went mainstream, initially calling it the Mexican Connection.
“Back then, the mezcal in New York City was only exported from Oaxaca, so I changed the name to Oaxaca Express, like a little taste from Oaxaca, Mexico,” he says.
- Tajin, for rimming the glass
- 1 slice jalapeño, no seeds
- 2 ounces espadín mezcal from Oaxaca
- 3/4 ounce Cucumber Puree
- 3/4 ounce fresh lime juice
- 3/4 ounce Agave Syrup
Rim a rocks glass with tajin and set aside. Add the jalapeño to a shaker and muddle, then add the mezcal, cucumber puree, lime juice, and agave syrup, plus ice. Shake for five to seven seconds. Double strain and serve.
ONE WAY TO OAXACA
BARTENDER SPOTLIGHT: Julio Xoxocotla
“Mexico-born Julio is a partner and head bartender at the Wild Son and Bar Lula in New York City. The phrase that inspired this fruity, lightly smoked, spicy, and herbal cocktail is “El dinero, el amor, y las guayabas no se pueden ocultar”—in English,” says Lampert, translating the sentence, “Money, love, and guavas cannot be hidden.”
- 11/2 ounces Pelotón de la Muerte mezcal
- 1 ounce guava puree
- 3/4 ounce Rosemary-Jalapeño Syrup
- 3/4 ounce lime juice
Add all ingredients to a shaker. Add ice and shake well. Once cold, strain over fresh ice in a rocks glass.
Recipes reprinted with permission from The Essential Tequila & Mezcal Companion by © 2023 Tess Rose Lampert. Published by Union Square and Co. Photography © Sarah Jung
