“Whatever you cook or don’t cook, this book is a trip to the islands or islas of the world.”
A beauty of a book, all lively colors, and wonderful photos, Islas: A Celebration of Tropical Cooking (Chronicle Books) takes us from island to island through the Indian, Atlantic, and Pacific Oceans.
“The people who live on tropical islands are among the toughest, scrappiest, most resilient people of the planet,” writes author Von Diaz, an Emmy Award-winning documentarian, food historian, and author of Coconuts to Collards: Recipes and Stories from Puerto Rico to the Deep South (University Press of Florida) . “Storms have always been unpredictable, and generations of islanders have cultivated ancestral knowledge around how to survive and, importantly, how to feed themselves despite it all. With limited ingredients, they cook in ways that are soul-nourishing and emphasize flavor. Making magic out of what’s available.”
Her cookbook is about preserving the wisdom and values of island people who live in what Diaz describes as the most volatile and vulnerable places on the planet. She follows their histories and how the grapple with their new realities, combining legacy, adaptability, culture, and fortitude.
She tells and shows us cooking techniques and recipes from faraway places such as Santo, Vanuatu’s largest island. Here we meet Primrose Siri who shares such recipes as Laplap, the national dish with its alternative layers of starch such as cassava or yam, seafood or chicken, herbs, spices, and fresh coconut milk cooked oven an earth oven heated with hot rock. Closer to home, there’s Pasteles de Masa, a Puerto Rican Christmas traditional dessert.
Even those who may never cook Arroz Negro Con Pulpo y Calamares (Black Rice with Octopus and Squid) with its rice blackened with squid ink, will be intrigued by this Puerto Rican dish that is definitely eye catching.
Keshi Yena’s history dates back to the first Dutch colonial period in Curaçao, a bustling island some 30 miles off the coast of Venezuela. It is the food of enslaved people, as Curaçao was a slave port, who out of necessity took the rinds of cheeses such as Gouda that were discarded by their masters and stuffing it with meat scraps and other scavenged ingredients.
Some recipes are simple and easy to make at home without a lot of extra ingredients such as Ensalada Talong (Grilled Eggplant and Vegetable Salad) from the Philippines. Others, such as Monfongo Con Guiso, a common dish of green plantains and chicharron or fried pork skins in Puerto Rico are more time consuming but within reach of any cook who wants to give it a try.
The book is arranged by the chapters including the island’s cooking techniques: Marinating, Pickling + Fermentation, Braising + Stewing, Steaming + In-Ground Cooking, Frying, Grilling, Roasting + Smoking, as well as pantry staples, and sauces, spice blends, and condiments that can easily be made.
Whatever you cook or don’t cook, this book is a trip to the islands or islas of the world.
Chamoru Barbecue Chicken with Juanita’s Fina’denne’
Island: Guam
Yield: 4 to 6 servings | Active Time: 1 hour | Total Time: At least 4 hours
“This adaptation of a classic Chamoru marinade has become my go-to for grilling chicken and pork. It comes together quickly and packs a punch; soy sauce and lemon deeply penetrate the meat, which is then infused with abundant garlic and ginger. Start your marinade the morning of your cookout instead of the night before, as this soy-heavy marinade is potent. Once you begin cooking, baste the chicken with the remaining marinade several times to glaze and char, being sure to let the marinade cook before taking the meat off the grill.”
Marinade:
- 10 to 12 large garlic cloves, minced
- 1/4 cup [50 g] finely grated peeled fresh ginger
- 1 cup [240 ml] soy sauce
- 1/2 cup [120 ml] fresh lemon juice
- 1/4 cup [60 ml] white wine vinegar
- 1/3 cup [65 g] light brown sugar
- 1 cup [104 g] finely chopped green onions, white and green parts
To make the marinade: In a medium bowl, combine the garlic, ginger, soy sauce, lemon juice, vinegar, brown sugar, and onions and stir well to incorporate.
Chicken:
- 3 to 4 lb [1.4 to 1.8 kg] bone-in skin-on chicken pieces, dark or white meat
- Steamed white rice, for serving
- Fina’denne’ (recipe below), for serving
To make the chicken: Put the chicken pieces in a large resealable bag or airtight container, then pour the marinade over and seal the container. Marinate for at least 3 hours or up to 12.
Remove the chicken from the marinade and place the pieces on a rimmed baking sheet. Reserve the remaining marinade.
Bring a grill to medium heat, then cook the chicken for 25 to 40 minutes, turning often to avoid burning, and brushing with the reserved marinade a few times. Be sure to cook the last application of marinade before taking the chicken off the grill.
Tent the chicken with aluminum foil and let it rest for 5 to 7 minutes before eating. Serve with steamed rice and fina’denne’ on the side.
TIP: If you don’t have access to a grill, this recipe is easy to prepare in the oven. Preheat the oven to 350°F [180°C], then line a large rimmed baking sheet with foil. Arrange the chicken in an even layer, bone-side down. Cover with foil and bake for 35 minutes. To finish, brush with reserved marinade, turn the heat to a high broil, and place the baking sheet directly under the broiler. Watching carefully, and brushing with marinade a few more times, broil for 5 to 10 minutes until the chicken reaches your desired char.
Island: Guam
Yield: 1 ½ cups [360 ml]
Total Time: 5 minutes
FINA’DENNE’
CHAMORU SOY DIPPING SAUCE
A staple of Chamoru cuisine, this soy-based dipping sauce is flavored with lemon, green onions, and fiery chiles. You can replace the vinegar with additional lemon juice if desired. This recipe was inspired by Juanita Blaz, who is profiled in Islas.
Chamoru Barbecue Chicken with Juanita’s Fina’denne’
- 3/4 cup [180 ml] soy sauce, plus more as needed
- 1/2 cup [24 g] thinly sliced green onions or shallots
- 3 to 6 red bird’s eye chiles
- 1/2 cup [80 g] halved cherry tomatoes
- 1/4 cup [60 ml] coconut vinegar or apple cider vinegar
- 1/4 cup [60 ml] fresh lemon juice
In a medium bowl, combine all ingredients and mix well. Taste and adjust soy sauce and chiles as desired.
This review originally appeared in the New York Journal of Books.
