“I believe we can live in a peaceful world where everyone has what they need to thrive and we can all experience the beauty of our diverse planet,” writes Mai Nguyen, a farmer and social justice activist in Sonoma, California known as Farmer Mai who won the James Beard Leadership Award this year. “To make that world, we have problems to solve: climate change and social inequality.
“I farm to undo climate change and strengthen our food sovereignty. I facilitate democracy because we must include everyone in determining how we organize ourselves and resources. I mobilize communities and work in coalitions to create policies that advance racially equitable, ecological farming and to advance land justice such that we have the places to root down agroecological farming.”
Farmer Mai, a heirloom grain farmer using exclusively agroecological farming practices, award-winning intersectional activist, speaker and consultant, believes that every seed remembers
“Growing heirloom seeds saved from the same soil and climate, even as we face climate change’s extreme droughts and floods, means that the seeds remember how to adapt,” she writes. “Seeds also carry our stories–where we came from and what nourished our ancestors. The heirloom grains I grow come from many parts of the world by the hands of people immigrating or escaping. These seeds connect them to a place and people as they make a new home here. The diversity of seed reflects the diversity of our society.”
Her grains include Marquis, hard red winter wheat with the following profile:
“This wheat tastes like a classic hard red with strong nutty, toasty, and sweet aromas. This wheat was selected from over 30 results of crossing Red Fife and an early ripening Indian wheat known as Hard Red Calcutta. It became the primary wheat grown in Canada in the 1900s, yet grows surprisingly well in coastal California.”
Farmer Mai also grows Rouge de Bordeaux , another hard red winter wheat, comes from Southwestern France and was a popular bread flour among 19th century French bakers.
Originally from England, Chiddam Blanc de Mars, another heritage wheat received its greatest reception in France and was documented in 1864. Turn of the century Parisians preferred Chiddam Blanc de Mars for their baguettes.
“I grew this variety for my mom who loves French baguettes,” says Farmer Mai.
Among her ryes are Abruzzi Rye, named for the region of Italy from which it originated, Mai describes the aromas of this rye as unique for being deeper and richer than its spicier, more sour Northern relatives.
Farmer Mai offers subscriptions to purchase her flour and/or wheatberries.
Among Farmer Mai’s activism is the concept of breaking away from conventional farming.
“Breaking with convention allows us to grow food in ways that replenish the soil, water, and air while holistically supporting those who work and eat from the land. The people who work the land and eat the food are part of a cost-benefit calculation, and the land is forced into submission through tillage and toxic chemicals. The results have been widening social inequality and environmental destruction. Farmer Mai employs local, skilled farmers during the harvest season, and compensation is based on more than a minimum wage but the area’s living wage.
