If Walls Could Talk: Chapala’s historic buildings and their former occupants

Now one of the most popular retirement area for Americans and Canadians, the Lake Chapala Region, nestled in a valley almost a mile high in Mexico’s Volcanic Axis,  has long been a draw for ex-pats and vacationers, lured by its almost perfect climate and beauty.

In his book If Walls Could Talk: Chapala’s historic buildings and their former occupants about Mexico‘s earliest international tourist destination (also available in Spanish), award-winning author Tony Burton shares his knowledge and interest in a region where he has spent more than two decades. Burton, a Fellow of the Royal Geographical Society who was born and educated in the United Kingdom, first visited Mexico in 1977. That visit was obviously a big success as he returned and for almost 18 years lived and worked full-time in Mexico as a writer, educator and ecotourism specialist.

He met his wife, Gwen Chan Burton who was a teacher of the deaf and then director at the Lakeside School for the Deaf in Jocotepec, one of the three main towns lining the shores of Lake Chapala. Though they now reside on Vancouver Island, British Columbia, the Burtons continue to revisit Mexico regularly and he is currently editor-in-chief of MexConnect, Mexico’s top English-language online magazine. The other two towns, each with its own distinctive vibe, are Ajijic and Chapala, native villages resettled by the Spanish Conquistadors in the 1500s. “This book looks at how Chapala, a small nondescript fishing village in Jalisco, suddenly shot to international prominence at the end of the nineteenth century as one of North America’s earliest tourist resorts,” writes Burton. “Within twenty years, Chapala, tucked up against the hills embracing the northern shore of Mexico’s largest natural lake, was attracting the cream of Mexican and foreign society. Thus began Lake Chapala’s astonishing transformation into the vibrant international community it is now, so beloved of authors, artists and retirees.”

The book, organized as a walking tour, covers not only existing buildings but also pinpoints the spots where significant early buildings no longer stand but their histories still weave a story of the town. It’s only a partial guide, explains Burton, noting that an inventory prepared by the National Institute of Anthropology and History identified more than eighty such buildings in Chapala including many not easily visible from the road but hidden behind high walls and better viewed from the lake.

Among the famous people who lived in Chapala at some point in their careers was author D.H. Lawrence, probably best remembered for his risqué (at the time) novel, Lady Chatterley’s Lover.

In 1923, Lawrence and his wife, Frieda, rented Casa de las Cuentas (House of Rosary Beads), a house that dates back to the 1800s. At the time, a one-story abode with a half-moon entrance and heavy wooden gates, it was located at 307 Calle Zaragoza, a street formerly known as Calle de la Pesquería (“Fishing street”) so named as it was where the local fishermen repaired their nets and hung them out to dry. It was while living on Calle Zaragoza that Lawrence wrote the first draft of The Plumed Serpent, published in 1926. The novel is described asthe story of a European woman’s self-annihilating plunge into the intrigues, passions, and pagan rituals of Mexico.”

Over the decades, after the Lawrences moved out, subsequent changes were made to Casa de las Cuentas including  the addition of a swimming pool in the mid-1950s when artist Roy MacNicol and his wife, Mary, owned the home.

While Lawrence’s writings were considered by some as scandalous, MacNicol’s life had its scandals as well. Burton describes him as “colorful” in that he was married multiple times and was involved in many escapades as well as lawsuits.

Mary, embracing the local culinary traditions including the use of flowers in cooking, authored Flower Cookery: The Art of Cooking With Flowers.

It wasn’t the work of a dilettante as reviews of her book such as this one on Amazon shows.

“Flower Cookery is recipes, but far more than recipes,” writes one reviewer. “The book is organized by the popular name of the flower in question. Each section is introduced with quotations from literature, philosophy, and poetry that feature the blossom. This is followed by the recipes, interwoven with mythology, stories, and aphorisms about the flower, the plant from which it grows, its symbolism, and the culture or society in which humans discovered the value of the plant or blossom. The recipes include original favorites as well as recipes collected from historical sources and contemporary sources around the world. Here is just the tiniest sampling of the riches in the book.”

Burton shares her Christmas Cheer recipe from when she lived at Casa de las Cuentas.

Christmas Cheer

10-12 squash blossoms with stems removed

2 eggs, beaten

2 to 3 tablespoons water

Flour, enough to thicken mixture about one tablespoon

Salt and pepper

1 cup neutral oil such as grapeseed, canola, or safflower

Wash and dry squash blossoms on paper towels, making sure to remove all the water. Mix remaining ingredients except oil to make a smooth batter. Place oil in a large, heavy skillet to 350-375°F. Dip blossoms in batter and fry in oil until golden brown. Drain on paper towels. Serve hot.

As for the house, it was renovated again in the early 1980s and is now Quinta Quetzalcoatl, a lovely boutique hotel.

If Walls Could Talk is one of four books that Burton has written on the Lake Chapala region. The other three are Foreign Footprints in Ajijic: decades of change in a Mexican Village; Lake Chapala Through the Ages: an anthology of travelers’ tales  (2008), and the recent Lake Chapala: A Postcard history. All are available as print and ebooks on Amazon.

The above maps, both copyrighted, show Chapala 1915 [lower map] and 1951 [upper map].

In all, he’s planning on adding several more to what he currently calls the Lake Chapala Quartet, these focusing on the writers and artists associated with the area.  I asked him  to describe the region so readers who have never been there can get an idea of what it is like, but it turns out the Burton is NOT a traveler who meticulously plots every moment of a trip before he arrives. Instead, he tells me that part of the fun when traveling is to not know in advance what places are like and instead to see and experience them for yourself.

“That said,” he continues, “the various villages and towns on the shores of Lake Chapala are all quite different in character. The town of Chapala, specifically, is a pretty large and bustling town. It is growing quite rapidly and has added several small high end boutique hotels in recent years, as well as some fine dining options to complement the more traditional shoreline ‘fish’ restaurants. The many old–100 years plus–buildings in Chapala give the town a historic ‘air’ where it is relatively easy to conjure up images of what it was like decades ago. By comparison, Ajijic, now the center of the foreign community on Lake Chapala, has virtually no old buildings and more of a village and artsy feel to it, though it also has very high quality accommodations and more fine restaurants than you can count.”

Other structures still standing include the Villa Tlalocan, completed in 1896 and described by a contemporary journalist as “the largest, costliest and most complete in Chapala… a happy minglement of the Swiss chalet, the Southern verandahed house of a prosperous planter and withal having an Italian suggestion. It is tastefully planned and is set amid grounds cultivated and adorned with flowers so easily grown in this paradisiacal climate where Frost touches not with his withering finger…”

Also still part of the landscape is Villa Niza. One of many buildings designed by Guillermo de Alba, the house, according to Burton, was built in 1919 and looks more American than European in style. Located at Hidalgo 250, it takes advantage of its setting on Lake Chapala and has a mirador (look out) atop the central tower of the structure, which affords sweeping panoramic views over the gardens and lake. De Alba’s strong geometric design boasts only minimal exterior ornamentation.

Burton, who specializes in non-fiction about Mexico, related to geography, history, travel, economics, ecology and natural history, has written several fascinating books about the history of the Lake Chapala region.

In If Walls Could Talk, Burton invites you to walk with him through time as you explore the city.

March into Spring with Flowers, Feathers, and Fun

Good news! Grand Isle, a part of southeast Louisiana that bore the brunt of Hurricane Ida’s impact last summer, is making great strides toward recovery. The famed Grand Isle State Park remains closed, but beaches and trails around the island are open, as is the shuttle boat that takes visitors to Elmer’s Island Wildlife Refuge. This is all wonderful news not only for the residents of this little island but also for fans of ecotourism.

Grand Isle is a haven for birdwatchers, who gather here each spring to welcome the hundreds of species of birds that touch down here after their long flights over the Gulf of Mexico to fuel up before continuing their migration north. The island residents have worked hard over the past few months to ensure that human visitors have places to stay (cabins and homes are available to rent, plus there are plenty of RV sites on the island) and great food to eat (the seafood in this area can’t be beat!).

Swooping Into Spring

From Alabama to Louisiana, myriad coastal destinations welcome flocks of both birds and human visitors for the spring migration season. Though birds stop along these areas in both the spring and fall, this is the more impressive migration time because thousands of species come to rest and recharge at around the same time as they all make their way north. If the timing is right – like when there are strong storms associated with a front – conditions are prime for what birders call a “fallout,” which occurs when thousands of birds drop from the sky at the same time to escape severe weather and refuel.

They gather in trees and shrubs, adorning them in a fashion that can be compared to looking at thousands of ornaments on colorful Christmas trees. This is a birder’s dream come true because you can see many species in a short amount of time, and spring is the best time for witnessing this spectacular event. To get an inside look at the best places to see migrating species this spring, click here 

Flower Power

If you find yourself in the Mid-Atlantic or along the Gulf Coast this spring, we’re sharing two can’t-miss floral experiences for your itinerary (or future bucket list)! In Greater Wilmington & The Brandywine Valley, five spectacular properties await exploration in this season of renewal. Among them, Hagley Museum and Library, Longwood Gardens, Mt. Cuba Center, Nemours Estate, and Winterthur Museum, Garden and Library.

In Mobile, where blooms burst year-round, a special reason to visit each March is to see just how Mobile earned the nickname “Azalea City.” Two prime locations to experience the bounty of azalea blooms are Mobile Botanical Gardens and Bellingrath Gardens & Home. For a more in-depth look at spring offerings at these gardens and estates, click here 

Doggone Egg Hunt in Mountain Maryland

Courtesy of Farrell Photography

Has Easter gone to the dogs? Seems that way consider that on April 9, Rocky Gap State Park in Allegany CountyThe Mountain Side of Maryland, is hosting its annual Doggone Egg Hunt. The state park is accessible to all members of the family — four-legged ones included. Visitors can bring their pups (costumes encouraged and welcome) for their own free Easter egg hunt. Eggs will contain prizes ranging from dog treats to toys and supplies. The ulti-mutt prize for all attendees includes getting to meet the Easter bunny! The two-legged members of the family will have the opportunity to meet with local vets and dog trainers and sample local food trucks. It’s promised to be a paws-itively good time for both dogs and humans.

Spring Theme Park Festivals in Missouri and Tennessee

Starting in April, springtime festivals burst into the season at Dollywood and Silver Dollar City. Street Fest at Silver Dollar City in Branson, Missouri, is likened to a colorful street carnival with performers, stilt-walkers, live musical performances and menus featuring unique food items from around the world. Beginning April 14 and continuing through May 1, the Living Garden’s new aerialists, statue illusionists and giant moving topiaries all come to life on the streets of The City. Check out a sneak peek of the park’s annual calendar of events here.

Meanwhile, in the Smoky Mountains of East Tennessee, Dollywood’s Flower & Food Festival has become a beloved springtime tradition. From April 22 to June 5, visitors to the park are sure to be delighted by the displays made up of thousands of brilliant flowers.

Returning guest favorites include the butterfly umbrella and Dolly’s mother sewing together the Coat of Many Colors. The “Food” part of the festival is also a showstopper, with a full menu of items inspired by spring in the Smokies. A roundup of Dollywood’s seasonal celebrations can be found here. .

Back in Bloom Special at The Otesaga Resort Hotel in Cooperstown

The season of spring brings a breath of fresh air and a feeling of “new.” Flowers bloom, grass grows and baby animals start to make their appearances. The Otesaga Resort Hotel in Cooperstown, New York, follows suit with a new spring special designed to encourage guests to take in the natural beauty of Cooperstown and breathe new life into their upcoming getaways. 

The Otesaga’s Back in Bloom Special offers guests their choice of tickets for either the Fenimore Art Museum or The Farmers’ Museum when they book a midweek (Sunday – Thursday) stay from April 3 through May 26, 2022. Rates start at $243, based on availability*. Both museums, which are closed during the winter months, will reopen on Friday, April 1 and this special launches just two days later. To get more details on this refreshing special, click here.